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* Schlauchlose Reifen sind ein teures Luxusprodukt.
das beste schlauchlose System erfordert den Kauf eines neuen Laufradsatzes, was die Kosten weiter erhöht. Die Auswahl ist überschaubar. Umrüsten von Felgen, die eigentlich nicht für schlauchlose Reifen vorgesehen sind, ist manchmal möglich, bei diesen hört man jedoch von Zuverlässigkeitsproblemen.* Road tubeless tires can't safely be run at as high pressure as ones with tubes, due to the risk of lifting off the rim ( YMMV of course and tubeless for road bicycles is not yet a mature technology.)* Tires with tubes win on ease of installation and replacement. The fit between a tubeless tire and the rim is tight. Special care must be taken to avoid tools' damaging rim flanges and tire beads; metal tire levers must never be used. Except for a skilled home mechanic, replacing a tire requires service at the bike shop. The tradeoff is between more flat tires with easier replacement, and fewe with more difficult replacement.* A blast of air from a compressor is often needed to seat the tire on the rim. A frame pump works too slowly to pop the tire into place to form a seal. Some tubeless- tire manufacturers claim that a floor pump will do - - particularly with a skinny tire which inflates quickly. Some newer frame pumps are designed to release a blast of air, though. A CO2 cartridge might work, especially with a skinny tire, but the tire must be deflated and reinflated during installation, and that takes two cartridges. The valve core must be removed during the first inflation to allow rapid airflow. * Because special sealing liquid must be sprayed or painted on the tire beads to form the initial seal, you would have to carry this with you to re-install a tubeless tire on the road. If the hole in the tire is too large for sealant to plug, then sealant must be cleaned off, and patching is iffy. In the event that the tire has a gash which requires a boot, there must be a tube inside to hold the boot in place. (With an inner tube, booting the tire and patching or replacing the tube are separate issues. ) All in all, if you get a flat on a ride, and sealant doesn't stop the leak, you had better carry a tube - - and tools to remove the tubeless valve, which is attached to the rim -- or have a team car with replacement wheels following you. Lifting the tire to install the tube is difficult and messy.* Sealant, needed to prevent air leakage with some tubeless tire/ rim combinations, dries out and must be replenished every few months.
* There have been claims of the ability to run a tubeless tire at lower pressure. This is in our opinion largely marketing spin. One manufacturer claims that its road tires can be run at 13% lower pressure. That is only marginally significant. Using a somewhat fatter tire allows lower pressure, increases ride comfort, and has been shown not to increase rolling resistance. A fatter tire with a tube, properly inflated, also will avoid pinch flats, and by keeping the rim higher off the road, also avoid rim damage.
* Is running at lower pressure an advantage, or is it a limitation? There are reported cases of tubeless tires' blowing off rims if inflated hard. Neither do they hold air as well at low pressure (for example, with off-road tires). Slight movements of the tire against the rim can cause a tire to "burp". This occurs when the tire casing is subjected to greater lateral load than it will stand, so that a short section of the sealing surface opens up and lets out air. The cyclist may detect this only later by the presence of some sealant along the rim/tire joint. However, once a tubeless tire's pressure has decreased so it no longer forms a seal, it will suddenly deflate. A friend of mine broke his hip during a cyclocross race that way.