Grunderneuerung von Schraubkranzfreiläufen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

The right side of the outer freewheel body looks like this when all cleaned up. A bearing race is visible.

The left side of the outer freewheel body looks like this. The steps of the rachet and a bearing race are visible.

For reassembly, you can use thickish grease to stick bearing balls in place while you reassemble the unit. With the outer part of the freewheel large-side-up, first insert balls into its bearing race. Don't fill the race completely -- leave room for two or three more balls. Again, use new bearing balls.

The tricky part is the pawls. Sometimes it is possible to seat the pawls by carefully rotating the inner and outer bodies against each other in the freewheeling direction. This so with the SunTour freewheels used in the illustrations here, because the pawl springs hold the pawls in place. You may also be able to get the pawls to seat by holding the freewheel large-side-up and moving the core from side to side as you rotate it clockwise.

Instead of the special clips, you can use a rubber band with a piece of thread looped though it. You need to have the freewheel removed from the wheel so you can get at its back when it is assembled. Assemble the pawls to the freewheel core, then wrap the rubber band around them to hold them against their springs. If you can't find a rubber band that is short enough, you might just wrap several turns of thread around. Once the outer part of the freewheel is more-or-less in place, pull the thread and rubber band out through the left side of the freewheel.

After seating the pawls, listen as you slowly rotate the outer body backwards. You should hear "tick, tock, tick, tock" if the ratchet in the outer body has an odd number of teeth and two pawls, so one engages at a time. If more than one pawl engages at the same time, as on many SunTour freewheels, you should hear ticktick, ticktick, ticktick.

At this time, you can drip oil down into the gap between the inner and outer bodies. Thin oil is easier to clean out without disassembling the freewheel. Phil Wood oil is thick enough to quiet the mechanism, though thin enough not to gum up the pawls. (Some newer off-brand Freehubs sound like a swarm of bees when riders are coasting!) Run the oil down the outside next to the bearing race. Avoid getting it onto the threads of the inner body.

If you were only removing a shim, or oil went to the wrong place, you may need to clean the threads of the outer ring and the mating threads of the inner body so threadlock compound will work. This is possible with Q-Tips and solvent without further disassembly. Then reinstall the shims. The shims will prevent bearing balls from falling down inside the mechanism.

After cleaning, pour the bearing balls in and distribute them. You may need to apply a light film of grease to hold them in place, but avoid getting it on the threads. Apply a couple drops of blue threadlock compound to the outer-ring threads before reinstalling it -- only a couple of drops, and only to the threads of the ring, so you don't gum up the bearings or the pawls. Apply more grease to the bearing race on the outside of the outer ring.

The outer ring threads on counterclockwise, so tightening it will tend to loosen the freewheel from the wheel. Thread the outer ring on as far as it will go without tightening it. Tighten the freewheel onto the wheel using a sprocket and chain whip or a freewheel remover so you have enough purchase to tighten the lockring. Tighten the lockring with a pin spanner or with a hammer and punch, alternating between the two holes.

==New Winner Körper==

SunTour new Winner body