Bürokraten, editor, Administratoren
15.340
Bearbeitungen
Platte Reifen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen
K
Überschriften übersetzen - ein wenig Kosmetik
K (Quelenangabe hinzugefügt) |
K (Überschriften übersetzen - ein wenig Kosmetik) |
||
| Zeile 47: | Zeile 47: | ||
#''Platzer'' sind plötzliche Druckverluste, die meist mit einem lauten Knall einhergehen. Der Schlauch ist nichts anderes als ein Gummiballon. Wenn man ihn außerhalb des Reifens weiter und weiter aufpumpt, wird er größer und gröer, bis er explodiert. Der Schlauch alleine hält nicht viel Druck aus, der umgebende Reifen und die Felge werde benötigt, um den Druck aufzunehmen, Wenn der Mantel den Schlauch nicht vollständig umfasst (Schlauch zwischen Mantel und Felge) oder nicht mehr halten (Risse oder Löscher im Mantel) kann, wird der Schlauch unweigerlich platzen. | #''Platzer'' sind plötzliche Druckverluste, die meist mit einem lauten Knall einhergehen. Der Schlauch ist nichts anderes als ein Gummiballon. Wenn man ihn außerhalb des Reifens weiter und weiter aufpumpt, wird er größer und gröer, bis er explodiert. Der Schlauch alleine hält nicht viel Druck aus, der umgebende Reifen und die Felge werde benötigt, um den Druck aufzunehmen, Wenn der Mantel den Schlauch nicht vollständig umfasst (Schlauch zwischen Mantel und Felge) oder nicht mehr halten (Risse oder Löscher im Mantel) kann, wird der Schlauch unweigerlich platzen. | ||
== | ==Radausbau== | ||
Although it is sometimes possible to repair a flat without removing the wheel from the bike, usually it is easier if you do take the wheel off. | Although it is sometimes possible to repair a flat without removing the wheel from the bike, usually it is easier if you do take the wheel off. | ||
* Release the brake if your bike has hand brakes. Good-quality "road" bikes usually have caliper brakes with a special "quick-release" mechanism to let the brake shoes open up wide enough to fit the tire through. You don't actually need this feature to remove a flat tire, but it is helpful. There will be a button on the brake handle, or a lever on the caliper (or cable hanger) to release the brake a bit. | * Release the brake if your bike has hand brakes. Good-quality "road" bikes usually have caliper brakes with a special "quick-release" mechanism to let the brake shoes open up wide enough to fit the tire through. You don't actually need this feature to remove a flat tire, but it is helpful. There will be a button on the brake handle, or a lever on the caliper (or cable hanger) to release the brake a bit. Unfortunately, bikes with cantilever brakes, such as most mountain, hybrid, and touring bicycles, usually don't have quick releases on the brakes, so you may have to completely disable the brake by unhooking the transverse cable from one of the arms. | ||
* Nutted or "bolt-on" axles use nuts to hold the wheel to the frame. They are used on older or less-expensive bicycles. To remove the wheel, you will need to loosen the nuts on each end of the axle. It is usually not necessary to actually remove the nuts, just loosen them and leave them on the axle. (Less work and less risk of loosing the nuts/washers.) | * Nutted or "bolt-on" axles use nuts to hold the wheel to the frame. They are used on older or less-expensive bicycles. To remove the wheel, you will need to loosen the nuts on each end of the axle. It is usually not necessary to actually remove the nuts, just loosen them and leave them on the axle. (Less work and less risk of loosing the nuts/washers.) | ||
You will need a wrench for this. Most rear axles use the 15 mm size, fronts may use 1/2", 14 mm, or 15 mm. If you don't have the correct size wrench, you can use an adjustable wrench. Turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them. | You will need a wrench for this. Most rear axles use the 15 mm size, fronts may use 1/2", 14 mm, or 15 mm. If you don't have the correct size wrench, you can use an adjustable wrench. Turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them. | ||
Do not try to do this job with pliers. Even if you do manage to loosen the nuts with pliers, you won't be able to get the nuts tight enough when you put the wheel back in. In addition, the pliers are likely to damage the nuts so that the correct wrench will no longer fit! | Do not try to do this job with pliers. Even if you do manage to loosen the nuts with pliers, you won't be able to get the nuts tight enough when you put the wheel back in. In addition, the pliers are likely to damage the nuts so that the correct wrench will no longer fit! There should be a washer between each nut and the fork end, but one of the places that newer bikes cut corners is by leaving these washers off. If your bike has axle washers, use them. If the washers are serrated (have teeth) the teeth should press against the fork end. | ||
There should be a washer between each nut and the fork end, but one of the places that newer bikes cut corners is by leaving these washers off. If your bike has axle washers, use them. If the washers are serrated (have teeth) the teeth should press against the fork end. | * Quick-release axles are hollow, and a thin part called a "skewer" runs all the way through the axle. One end of the skewer is threaded, and has an acorn-shaped nut screwed on to it. The other end (usually placed on the bicycle's left side) uses a cam mechanism to secure the wheel. The cam is operated by a handle, which you can flip over to loosen the wheel. Pull the handle straight out away from the bike and flip it over. This will release the tension on the quick-release skewer, but you may need to loosen the mechanism a bit more before you can actually get the wheel out. To loosen the quick release skewer, once you have flipped the handle, hold the acorn nut with one hand, and turn the handle counterclockwise until it is loose enough to let you remove the wheel. Try not to completely unscrew the acorn nut, because there are a couple of little springs that could get lost if you take it off. If you're not exactly clear how the quick release works, get somebody to explain it to you before you try removing your wheel. Misuse of the quick release can cause very serious injury! | ||
* Quick-release axles are hollow, and a thin part called a "skewer" runs all the way through the axle. One end of the skewer is threaded, and has an acorn-shaped nut screwed on to it. The other end (usually placed on the bicycle's left side) uses a cam mechanism to secure the wheel. The cam is operated by a handle, which you can flip over to loosen the wheel. Pull the handle straight out away from the bike and flip it over. This will release the tension on the quick-release skewer, but you may need to loosen the mechanism a bit more before you can actually get the wheel out. | ** Front wheel removal is fairly straightforward: Lift the bike by the handlebars, and the wheel will just fall out. | ||
** Rear wheel removal is a bit more complicated, but not usually too difficult, if you go about it in the correct sequence: | |||
If you're not exactly clear how the quick release works, get somebody to explain it to you before you try removing your wheel. Misuse of the quick release can cause very serious injury! | ** Derailer Gears Derailer gears look as if they would be the hardest, but are actually the easiest type of rear wheel to remove and re-install! The trick is to shift to the smallest (outermost) rear sprocket before loosening anything. This gets the derailer as far out of the way as possible. (It doesn't matter where the front derailer is.) | ||
* Front wheel removal is fairly straightforward: Lift the bike by the handlebars, and the wheel will just fall out. | |||
* Rear wheel removal is a bit more complicated, but not usually too difficult, if you go about it in the correct sequence: | |||
**Derailer Gears Derailer gears look as if they would be the hardest, but are actually the easiest type of rear wheel to remove and re-install! The trick is to shift to the smallest (outermost) rear sprocket before loosening anything. This gets the derailer as far out of the way as possible. (It doesn't matter where the front derailer is.) | |||
After freeing the axle by loosening the quick release or axle nuts: | After freeing the axle by loosening the quick release or axle nuts: | ||
#Stand to the left of the rear wheel. | #Stand to the left of the rear wheel. | ||
| Zeile 78: | Zeile 74: | ||
***Shimano Nexus Hubs require the cable to be unhooked from the control ring. This is explained on my Nexus Mechanics Page. With Nexus hubs, it is often easier to open up one side of the tire and patch the tube on the bike, because this type of hub is the most difficult to remove. | ***Shimano Nexus Hubs require the cable to be unhooked from the control ring. This is explained on my Nexus Mechanics Page. With Nexus hubs, it is often easier to open up one side of the tire and patch the tube on the bike, because this type of hub is the most difficult to remove. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen abziehen=== | ||
Before you remove the tire, take a quick look at it to see if the cause of the flat is obvious. There may be a nail sticking out, or a hole in the sidewall, or some other obvious problem. More often not, the cause will not be obvious from the outside, but a quick look can sometimes save time. | Before you remove the tire, take a quick look at it to see if the cause of the flat is obvious. There may be a nail sticking out, or a hole in the sidewall, or some other obvious problem. More often not, the cause will not be obvious from the outside, but a quick look can sometimes save time. | ||
To remove the tire, you need to pull the bead off the rim, one side at a time. The diameter of the bead is smaller than the outer diameter of the rim. As long as the tire is centered on the rim, it cannot come off. To remove one side of the tire, you need to put the bead off-center. One part of the bead needs to go down into the valley at the bottom of the rim, so that the opposite side of the bead can be pried over the edge of the rim. This can often be done by hand, but usually is much easier if you use tire levers (tire levers used to be called "tire irons", but nowadays, most of them are made of fibreglas or other plastics.) Most tire levers have a rounded end and a hooked end. | To remove the tire, you need to pull the bead off the rim, one side at a time. The diameter of the bead is smaller than the outer diameter of the rim. As long as the tire is centered on the rim, it cannot come off. To remove one side of the tire, you need to put the bead off-center. One part of the bead needs to go down into the valley at the bottom of the rim, so that the opposite side of the bead can be pried over the edge of the rim. This can often be done by hand, but usually is much easier if you use tire levers (tire levers used to be called "tire irons", but nowadays, most of them are made of fibreglas or other plastics.) Most tire levers have a rounded end and a hooked end. | ||
| Zeile 85: | Zeile 81: | ||
After you have removed one side of the tire, reach in and pull out the inner tube. Remove the tube completely, while leaving the other side of the tire in place. | After you have removed one side of the tire, reach in and pull out the inner tube. Remove the tube completely, while leaving the other side of the tire in place. | ||
=== | ===Den Schlauch inspizieren=== | ||
Keep track of which way the tube was facing in the tire, and pump it up. You will usually be able to find the hole by the hissing sound as the air escapes. If you have a slow leak, it may not make enough noise to hear, unless you pump the tube up enough to stretch it out. Tubes can commonly be inflated to twice their normal thickness or more without risk of popping them, and, as the tube stretches, the hole also gets bigger, making it easier to find. For very slow leaks, as a last resort, you can immerse the inflated tube in water and look for bubbles. Don't do this unless you need to, though, because you can't patch a wet tube. | Keep track of which way the tube was facing in the tire, and pump it up. You will usually be able to find the hole by the hissing sound as the air escapes. If you have a slow leak, it may not make enough noise to hear, unless you pump the tube up enough to stretch it out. Tubes can commonly be inflated to twice their normal thickness or more without risk of popping them, and, as the tube stretches, the hole also gets bigger, making it easier to find. For very slow leaks, as a last resort, you can immerse the inflated tube in water and look for bubbles. Don't do this unless you need to, though, because you can't patch a wet tube. | ||
When you find the hole, make note of where it is with respect to the valve hole, also whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube. | When you find the hole, make note of where it is with respect to the valve hole, also whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube. | ||
| Zeile 92: | Zeile 88: | ||
* If you find two holes, one above another, you probably have what is commonly called a "snake bite," a pinch cut resulting from hitting a stone or pavement break and pinching the tube between the rim and the rock. This sort of failure is most often caused by insufficient tire pressure. | * If you find two holes, one above another, you probably have what is commonly called a "snake bite," a pinch cut resulting from hitting a stone or pavement break and pinching the tube between the rim and the rock. This sort of failure is most often caused by insufficient tire pressure. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen inspizieren=== | ||
While you have the tire off the rim, examine the inside of it carefully. Thorns and glass slivers can hide, and may be difficult to remove. I find that pushing them back out through the tread, using a sharp instrument, is often helpful. | While you have the tire off the rim, examine the inside of it carefully. Thorns and glass slivers can hide, and may be difficult to remove. I find that pushing them back out through the tread, using a sharp instrument, is often helpful. | ||
| Zeile 98: | Zeile 94: | ||
In addition to looking for sharp pointy things poking through, look also for broken cords or cuts in the fabric of the tire. If you find such cuts that run more than a millimeter or two, you should replace the tire when possible. | In addition to looking for sharp pointy things poking through, look also for broken cords or cuts in the fabric of the tire. If you find such cuts that run more than a millimeter or two, you should replace the tire when possible. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen reparieren=== | ||
If you're on the road and have a tire with a bad cut that could allow the tube to bulge through, you can make a temporary repair by installing a "boot" on the inside of the tire. This can be made of any flexible but non-stretchy material. The ideal thing is a piece cut from an old tire, because this will have the correct curved shape to begin with. I usually like to carry a strip 2-3 inches (50-75 mm) long, cut from an old tubular tire or a high-pressure road clincher. Mountain bikers sometimes use dollar bills folded over, or Mylar food wrappers. | If you're on the road and have a tire with a bad cut that could allow the tube to bulge through, you can make a temporary repair by installing a "boot" on the inside of the tire. This can be made of any flexible but non-stretchy material. The ideal thing is a piece cut from an old tire, because this will have the correct curved shape to begin with. I usually like to carry a strip 2-3 inches (50-75 mm) long, cut from an old tubular tire or a high-pressure road clincher. Mountain bikers sometimes use dollar bills folded over, or Mylar food wrappers. | ||
| Zeile 108: | Zeile 104: | ||
Even the best of boots should only be considered a temporary repair. The tire will be less reliable, and you will feel a bump every time the tire goes around. | Even the best of boots should only be considered a temporary repair. The tire will be less reliable, and you will feel a bump every time the tire goes around. | ||
==== | ====Den Schlauch Flicken==== | ||
Inner tube patching is a very old, well established technology, and is quite reliable if done properly: | Inner tube patching is a very old, well established technology, and is quite reliable if done properly: | ||
| Zeile 128: | Zeile 124: | ||
* Applying the patch before the cement has dried fully. | * Applying the patch before the cement has dried fully. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen wieder aufziehen=== | ||
Although you usually need tire levers or a similar tool to remove a tire from the rim, usually you should be able to re-install the tire with your bare hands. | Although you usually need tire levers or a similar tool to remove a tire from the rim, usually you should be able to re-install the tire with your bare hands. | ||
| Zeile 164: | Zeile 160: | ||
Some tire/rim combinations are just too tight a fit, and you may need to use a tool. The best tool for this is the "Kool Stop bead jack" because this tool lifts the edge of the tire without going inside of it, so it is less likely to damage the inner tube than a conventional tire lever is. | Some tire/rim combinations are just too tight a fit, and you may need to use a tool. The best tool for this is the "Kool Stop bead jack" because this tool lifts the edge of the tire without going inside of it, so it is less likely to damage the inner tube than a conventional tire lever is. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen aufpumpen=== | ||
Once the tire is fully installed on the rim, you can inflate it, but it my not be as round as it should be. If it isn't, it is usualy because the tire needs to be "seated" so that it sits at the same depth in the rim all the way around. | Once the tire is fully installed on the rim, you can inflate it, but it my not be as round as it should be. If it isn't, it is usualy because the tire needs to be "seated" so that it sits at the same depth in the rim all the way around. | ||
| Zeile 176: | Zeile 172: | ||
Once you're sure the tire is properly seated, inflate it to full pressure. | Once you're sure the tire is properly seated, inflate it to full pressure. | ||
=== | ===Den Reifen setzen=== | ||
Once the tire is inflated, you may see that it is not as round as the rim is. Usually this will take the form of having most of the circumference of the tire in the correct place, but there will likely be one place where the tire either bulges out too far, or dips inward toward the rim. It may do this on only one side. | Once the tire is inflated, you may see that it is not as round as the rim is. Usually this will take the form of having most of the circumference of the tire in the correct place, but there will likely be one place where the tire either bulges out too far, or dips inward toward the rim. It may do this on only one side. | ||
| Zeile 182: | Zeile 178: | ||
Most tires have a "witness line" moulded into each sidewall. This is a narrow ridge of rubber running around the side of the tire, just outside of the rim. Spinning the wheel and observing the witness line will help you locate the place where the seating might be off. Note, it could be OK on one side of the tire but not the other. | Most tires have a "witness line" moulded into each sidewall. This is a narrow ridge of rubber running around the side of the tire, just outside of the rim. Spinning the wheel and observing the witness line will help you locate the place where the seating might be off. Note, it could be OK on one side of the tire but not the other. | ||
==== | ====Setzen eines unwuchtigen Reifens==== | ||
If one part of the tire bulges out farther than the rest, deflate it right away or it may explode with a loud bang! Manually re-arrange the tire to get it centered on the rim before re-inflating it. Make sure the tire bead isn't sitting on top of part of the inner tube. | If one part of the tire bulges out farther than the rest, deflate it right away or it may explode with a loud bang! Manually re-arrange the tire to get it centered on the rim before re-inflating it. Make sure the tire bead isn't sitting on top of part of the inner tube. | ||
If the bulge is right at the valve, this usually indicates that the tire is sitting on the reinforcing patch at the base of the valve. Completely deflate the tire, and push the valve up into the tire with your thumb, while pressing the tire down around it, then pull the valve back down before inflating. | If the bulge is right at the valve, this usually indicates that the tire is sitting on the reinforcing patch at the base of the valve. Completely deflate the tire, and push the valve up into the tire with your thumb, while pressing the tire down around it, then pull the valve back down before inflating. | ||
| Zeile 190: | Zeile 186: | ||
In some cases it may be beneficial to lubricate the side of the tire. This can be done with soapy water, but I usually use spray window cleaner for this, because it doesn't leave a soapy residue on the braking surface of the rim. | In some cases it may be beneficial to lubricate the side of the tire. This can be done with soapy water, but I usually use spray window cleaner for this, because it doesn't leave a soapy residue on the braking surface of the rim. | ||
=== | ===Das Rad wieder einbauen=== | ||
Re-installing the wheel is a critical task, and if you don't do it right, the wheel can fall out, leading to a serious crash. This is particularly important on the front wheel. If it falls out you will probably land on your face! | Re-installing the wheel is a critical task, and if you don't do it right, the wheel can fall out, leading to a serious crash. This is particularly important on the front wheel. If it falls out you will probably land on your face! | ||
| Zeile 223: | Zeile 219: | ||
===Check the Brakes!=== | ===Check the Brakes!=== | ||
Make sure to check the brakes after you have re-installed the wheel, especially if you disconnected it or used a quick release to help remove the wheel. | Make sure to check the brakes after you have re-installed the wheel, especially if you disconnected it or used a quick release to help remove the wheel. | ||
==Prevention== | ==Prevention== | ||