Sturmey-Archer SW Drei-Gang-Naben: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

Make sure burrs on the pinion teeth are ground smooth. If the burrs face the spacer ring (L6), it will experience excessive wear and probably an increase in drag until the parts wear in. Allowing things to wear in on their own can really chew up the spacer ring, however, so I suggest removing any burrs from the planet teeth.

When rebuilding an ailing SW, the best approach is to use all new parts, but most of these parts are rare today, so this is not a viable option for most hubs. However, with a collection of junk hubs, one may be able to assemble a "better-than-new" hub by measuring the parts and selecting the best-fitting ones. Using a micrometer or dial caliper, measure the length and height of each pawl and try to match like measurements into sets of three. Also, look for a combination of smallest inner diameter with largest outer diameter of the right-side pawl ring (L11). The driver surface that this pawl ring runs on should also be the largest possible. Try the operation of the right-side pawls by hand (partially assemble the internals with the right-side bearing cone finger tight — no play) and see if you can get simultaneous engagement of all three pawls. It's frustrating, but can be accomplished. Also, select bearing cones whose threads fit as tightly as possible on the axle to help eliminate gear misalignment (same cones as the AW, so availability should not be a problem). Ultimately, the "best" combination of parts will be a matter of judgment and trial-and-error fitting. If you do not have any spares to work with, converting to spring-loaded pawls may be the answer — see below.