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Reparatur von Ledersätteln: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen
→Bolzen der in der Sattelnase, Gefederter Unterbau: Bilder hinzugefügt
(→Bolzen der in der Sattelnase, Gefederter Unterbau: Bilder hinzugefügt) |
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The Flyer saddle has two sets of rails.The set which is closer to the saddle top loops around the nose bolt, as shown in the photos below. | The Flyer saddle has two sets of rails.The set which is closer to the saddle top loops around the nose bolt, as shown in the photos below. | ||
[[Datei:Upper saddle rails around nose bolt.jpg|center|Aufbau der Sattelnase im Detail]] | |||
[[Datei:Upper rails from back.jpg|center|Wie der Aufbau um die Sattelnase das obere Gestänge hält]] | |||
Nose assemblies may differ. The one in the image below is on a Brooks B72 4-wire saddle. It is a good idea to take a photo before disassembly, as a guide before reassembling. | Nose assemblies may differ. The one in the image below is on a Brooks B72 4-wire saddle. It is a good idea to take a photo before disassembly, as a guide before reassembling. | ||
[[Datei:B72-nose.jpg|center|Sattelnase eines B72 Sattels]] | |||
Re-riveting an unsprung saddle is simple, but getting the wrench past the springs of a sprung saddle can be a bit tricky. Use a thin open-end wrench -- 1/2 inch for the Brooks saddles I've worked on. Getting a nut started is easier if you attach it to the blade of a screwdriver with a dab of grease, to reach in between the coils of a spring. | Re-riveting an unsprung saddle is simple, but getting the wrench past the springs of a sprung saddle can be a bit tricky. Use a thin open-end wrench -- 1/2 inch for the Brooks saddles I've worked on. Getting a nut started is easier if you attach it to the blade of a screwdriver with a dab of grease, to reach in between the coils of a spring. | ||