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→Adjustment: Formatierung
(→Einrasten (Stillstandsmarken): typo, etwas klarer formuliert) |
K (→Adjustment: Formatierung) |
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| Zeile 87: | Zeile 87: | ||
The adjustable race is secured by either a: | The adjustable race is secured by either a: | ||
*Star fangled nut and cap, or compression rings in the case of some threadless headsets or a: | |||
*Keyed washer and lock nut, for threaded headsets. | |||
===Adjustment (Threaded)=== | ===Adjustment (Threaded)=== | ||
| Zeile 94: | Zeile 94: | ||
Adjustment is easiest if you use two wrenches. You may use large end wrenches, or special wrenches made to fit the wrench flats of the locknut and top race -- but in a pinch, you can get by with a single large adjustable wrench. There is some risk of stripping out the tab of the keyed washer or of its damaging the threads of the steerer if you use a single wrench. | Adjustment is easiest if you use two wrenches. You may use large end wrenches, or special wrenches made to fit the wrench flats of the locknut and top race -- but in a pinch, you can get by with a single large adjustable wrench. There is some risk of stripping out the tab of the keyed washer or of its damaging the threads of the steerer if you use a single wrench. | ||
#Leave the bicycle right-side-up with the front wheel resting on the floor. | |||
#Loosen the locknut. Preferably, hold the top race from turning with one wrench while turning the locknut with another. If using one wrench and the top race starts to turn along with the locknut more than a tiny bit, go looking for a second wrench. | |||
#(Skip this step if threads and washer are greased.) Unless the threads and keyed washer are already greased, remove them. Do not unscrew the top race, unless you are going to go to overhaul the headset -- loose bearing balls might fall out. | |||
#(Skip this step if threads and washer are greased.) Grease the keyed washer and the threads of the steerer. | |||
#(Skip this step if threads and washer are greased.) Replace the keyed washer, and screw the locknut.down most of the way, leaving it loose.. | |||
#By hand, without using a wrench, screw down the upper head race until the bearings just begin to bind, then back it off about 1/8 turn. (Tightening the locknut will press down the upper head race, due to its slight looseness on the threads.) | |||
#Tighten the locknut lightly and test the bearings for free rotation with no excess play. Unless the adjustment is perfect, loosen the locknut and readjust the bearings as necessary. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the locknut fully and check again. | |||
Older French threaded headsets use a serrated or pinned keyed washer which mates with the upper head race. With these headsets, you must back off the locknut farther so that you can rotate the upper head race. | Older French threaded headsets use a serrated or pinned keyed washer which mates with the upper head race. With these headsets, you must back off the locknut farther so that you can rotate the upper head race. | ||
| Zeile 107: | Zeile 107: | ||
Threadless headsets have an adjustable race that slips over an un-threaded steerer. There are three distinctstarnut types of threadless headsets which adjust differently: | Threadless headsets have an adjustable race that slips over an un-threaded steerer. There are three distinctstarnut types of threadless headsets which adjust differently: | ||
*"Aheadset" style threadless headsets, the most common type, require a threaded fastener such as a Star Fangled Nut (photo at right) to be installed inside the steerer.<br><br>This type of headset must be used with a special handlebar stem that clamps onto the outside of the steerer, either with one or more binder bolts, or other means. The stem is further secured by a plastic or metal cap which is bolted to the star nut.<br><br>To adjust an "Aheadset"-type headset, the stem binder must be loosened, then the bolt that runs through the cap to the star nut is tightened, usually with a 5 mm Allen wrench. This presses the stem down against the tapered bushing that fits inside the adjustable cup. and takes up the slack in the system. The stem is then aligned with the front wheel and tightened with its binder bolts. Once the stem binder bolts have been tightened, the adjusting bolt that goes to the star nut is under no significant stress, and may even be removed. This makes some unusual customizations possible, for example, adding a wedge/expander-type stem to hold a second set of handlebars! | |||
*"Diatech" headsets from Dia Compe use a special pair of collars, usually mounted just below the stem and above the top race. The lower collar has a beveled, conical top surface, which fits inside of a matching bevel on the inner circumference of the upper collar.<br><br>The upper collar has a gap at one point, with a binder bolt to squeeze the gap together. (This upper collar may also include a cable stop for the front brake, if the bicycle has a rigid fork and conventional cantilever or centerpull brakes.)<br><br>The handlebar stem is clamped tightly to the steerer, preventing the upper collar from moving upward. As the upper collar is compressed by the binder bolt, it squeezes the lower collar downward, taking up any slack in the headset bearings. | |||
*The YST "GeForce" headset, unfortunately no longer made, has a collar which slips over the steerer, clamped to it with a binder bolt. The outside of this collar is threaded, and the upper bearing race screws onto these threads. The assembly is fitted with a binder bolt that clamps it tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.<br><br>The GeForce is the only threadless headset which doesn't use the handlebar stem as part of the adjustment. This headset could be used with any stem, either external clamping or internal expander/wedge type. It is commonly found on Bike Friday folding bicycles made in the mid-1990s.<br><br>To adjust a GeForce headset, loosen the binder bolts in the collar and the top race; screw the collar and upper bearing race together, then back off by a fraction of a turn. Tighten the binder bolt of the collar while pressing the assembly down; turn the top race to adjust it; then tighten the binder bolt of the top race. The collar uses a 4 mm Allen wrench, and the top race, a 2.5 mm Allen wrench -- available at some bike shops and at better hardware and auto parts stores. You might take the collar/upper bearing race assembly with you to check the fit of this wrench when you buy it. | |||
==Overhaul== | ==Overhaul== | ||
Headsets are pretty durable, and hardly ever need to be serviced if your bicycle has a front fender. | Headsets are pretty durable, and hardly ever need to be serviced if your bicycle has a front fender. | ||