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K (→Adjustment (Threadless): Überschrift) |
K (→Overhaul: Überschirft) |
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Zeile 111: | Zeile 111: | ||
*The YST "GeForce" headset, unfortunately no longer made, has a collar which slips over the steerer, clamped to it with a binder bolt. The outside of this collar is threaded, and the upper bearing race screws onto these threads. The assembly is fitted with a binder bolt that clamps it tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.<br><br>The GeForce is the only threadless headset which doesn't use the handlebar stem as part of the adjustment. This headset could be used with any stem, either external clamping or internal expander/wedge type. It is commonly found on Bike Friday folding bicycles made in the mid-1990s.<br><br>To adjust a GeForce headset, loosen the binder bolts in the collar and the top race; screw the collar and upper bearing race together, then back off by a fraction of a turn. Tighten the binder bolt of the collar while pressing the assembly down; turn the top race to adjust it; then tighten the binder bolt of the top race. The collar uses a 4 mm Allen wrench, and the top race, a 2.5 mm Allen wrench -- available at some bike shops and at better hardware and auto parts stores. You might take the collar/upper bearing race assembly with you to check the fit of this wrench when you buy it. | *The YST "GeForce" headset, unfortunately no longer made, has a collar which slips over the steerer, clamped to it with a binder bolt. The outside of this collar is threaded, and the upper bearing race screws onto these threads. The assembly is fitted with a binder bolt that clamps it tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.<br><br>The GeForce is the only threadless headset which doesn't use the handlebar stem as part of the adjustment. This headset could be used with any stem, either external clamping or internal expander/wedge type. It is commonly found on Bike Friday folding bicycles made in the mid-1990s.<br><br>To adjust a GeForce headset, loosen the binder bolts in the collar and the top race; screw the collar and upper bearing race together, then back off by a fraction of a turn. Tighten the binder bolt of the collar while pressing the assembly down; turn the top race to adjust it; then tighten the binder bolt of the top race. The collar uses a 4 mm Allen wrench, and the top race, a 2.5 mm Allen wrench -- available at some bike shops and at better hardware and auto parts stores. You might take the collar/upper bearing race assembly with you to check the fit of this wrench when you buy it. | ||
== | ==Wartung== | ||
Headsets are pretty durable, and hardly ever need to be serviced if your bicycle has a front fender. | Headsets are pretty durable, and hardly ever need to be serviced if your bicycle has a front fender. | ||
Zeile 122: | Zeile 122: | ||
It helps also to turn the bike upside down once the stem has been removed -- easier with a workstand. Don't rest old upward-arched drop-bar brake cables on the floor. | It helps also to turn the bike upside down once the stem has been removed -- easier with a workstand. Don't rest old upward-arched drop-bar brake cables on the floor. | ||
; | ;Gewindesteuersatz: | ||
Unscrew the lock nut, remove any washers, then unscrew the threaded bearing race. You'll be able to just lift the fork out of the frame. | Unscrew the lock nut, remove any washers, then unscrew the threaded bearing race. You'll be able to just lift the fork out of the frame. | ||
; | ;Gewindeloser Steuersatz: | ||
Once the stem is off, all of the spacer washers should come off easily. The upper bearing race may be a snug fit to the steerer, so you might need to give the top of the steerer a rap with a mallet to break it free. | Once the stem is off, all of the spacer washers should come off easily. The upper bearing race may be a snug fit to the steerer, so you might need to give the top of the steerer a rap with a mallet to break it free. | ||