Lenkerband wickeln: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

Foam grips such as "Grab-on" brand were quite popular in the late '70s and early '80s. They cushion road impacts and can be a good choice for riders with long fingers. Foam grips provide excellent insulation for winter riding. Some riders like to cover them with a layer of cloth tape to make the foam a bit firmer, and to protect it. This will require two rolls of cloth tape at either side, due to the larger diameter.

Installing foam grips is often quite a struggle. Our favorite approach is to use hair spray as a lubricant. Spray into the grips, while holding one end covered, and also spray copiously on the handlebar just before sliding the grip on.

We also keep a hypodermic syringe handy, filled with rubbing alcohol. If the grips get stuck part way on, we jab the needle through the foam at a shallow angle so that it will pierce through to the handlebar, and give a good squirt of alcohol. That will free the grip. This is also a good way to remove the grips when necessary without damaging them.

When installing foam grips with cable housing running under, as for "æro" brake levers, you do not tape the housing in place. Get the housing segments carefully sized first, then thread a bare cable through the housing starting at the brake-lever end. Stick the end of the cable through the foam grip before sliding it onto the handlebar. Once the grip is in place, pull on the bare cable so the fitting for the brake lever draws the housing through the grip. Withdraw the cable and install the brake lever and the cable all the way to the brake. If the housing is too long at the brake lever, pull it through at the center of the handlebar; it too short, inch it into place by depressing the brake lever, then readjusting the cable at the brake as many times as needed till it comes up tight.

Sometimes, foam grips may be counterproductive, due to the "two-bump problem."

==Nerddiskussion: Die Lenkerbandrichtung==

OK, here's the nerdy discussion of which way to wind the tape.

Calvin Jones of Park Tools has pointed out that the common wrist movement which tries to twist the tape rotates the hand outward on the drops and upward (wrist down) on the tops. The tape must resist this rotation.

Let's look first at the drops.

*   If the tape is wound starting inward at the underside of the handlebar, outward rotation of the hand will tend to tighten the tape between hand and the handlebar end. If the tape is secured by tucking it into the end plug, all is well. Also, the capstan effect comes into play, so the added tension on the tape decreases exponentially between the hand and the handlebar end. How much depends on the traction between the tape and handlebar, and the distance of the hand from the handlebar end.

*   If the tape is wound starting outward at the underside at the end of the handlebar, outward rotation of the hand will tend to loosen the tape between hand and the handlebar end, but does not tend to break the tape loose at the handlebar end. With the capstan effect, the tension rises between the hand and the handlebar end. How much depends on the traction between the tape and handlebar, and the distance of the hand from the handlebar end.

Which is better? I can't be entirely sure. In any case, the usual problem with tape loosening is on the tops, at the curve behind the brake lever. Let's look at that.

*   The tape may be wound so upward motion of the hand (wrist downward) tightens it in the curve between the hand and the brake lever, where it most often loosens and slips. This is the same direction as if the tape is wound starting outward at the bottom. But then it is loosened between the hand and the end of the tape near the middle of the handlebars.

*   If the tape is wound so upward motion of the hand (wrist downward tightens it between the hand and the center of the handlebars, it could tend to rotate there if not well-secured, and loosen.

The tape is probably secured well around the brake lever, due to the twists and turns it must make, suggesting that tape which tightens toward the brake levers is preferable. That is, however, opposite on the tops and the drops. Calvin Jones shows how to wrap the tape around the brake lever to reverse its winding direction, worth considering if it proves important.

One thing that is clear regardless of the outcome of this discussion is the importance of holding the tape under tension when installing it. Like a spokes of a bicycle wheel or the fabric in the tire, the tape holds its form only when under tension. But also, the capstan effect takes on an unusual twist (literally). Change in tension is relative to the static, fixed tension, increasing to that value at one side of where the hand disturbs it, decreasing on the other.

Again, how securely the tape is attached matters. Rivendell Bicycle Works suggests a very secure attachment at the top of the handlebar, using twine. This works with cloth tape but might damage thicker cork or synthetic tape -- which is often sold with an adhesive strip. Electrician's tape may also be used, and as Calvin Jones suggests, spot-melted to keep it from slipping.

I (John Allen) am conducting an experiment. I have wound the tape a different way on each side, and will see which way works better. You may get an answer in the fullness of time. Or I may already have an answer: tension is more important -- see the second image blow.

Wrong way! - but all in the interest of science

The gap is harder to see on the left side because it is over a strip of black electrician's tape.

Dieser Artikel basiert auf dem Artikel https://sheldonbrown.com/handlebar-tape.html Installing Handlebar Tape ] von der Website  [http://sheldonbrown.com Sheldon Browns]. Originalautor des Artikels ist [[Sheldon Brown]] mit Vervollständigungen des Artikels durch [[John Allen]].