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Wartung von Naben: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

→‎Demontage: Übersetzungsanfang
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(→‎Demontage: Übersetzungsanfang)
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==Demontage==
==Demontage==
[[Sheldon Brown]] schlug vor, dass man mit dem Vorderrad beginnt, wenn man diese Arbeit noch nie vorher gemacht hat. Man muss hier mit weniger Komplikationen rechnen. Bevor man die Achse ausbaut, prüft man, ob sie verbogen ist. Schraube die Achsenmuttern ab (oder zieh den Schnellspannerspieß heraus), die das Laufrad an der Gabel halten. Wenn man nun die Achse rotiert und sich beide Enden ansieht, erkennt man schnell, ob die Achse verbogen ist. Wenn sie verbogen ist, wird eine Seite oder sogar beide beim Drehen hin und her wackeln.


I would suggest that you start with the front wheel if you have not done this job before, because there are fewer complications. Before you remove the axle, check to see if it is bent. Remove the axle nuts or quick-release skewer that holds the wheel to the fork. Now if you rotate the axle and look at each end of it in turn you should be able to tell if the axle is bent. If it is, one end or both will wobble back and forth as it is turned.
Neuere [[Shimano]] Naben [[Staubkappe]]n aus Gummi, die man herunterhebeln muss, bevor man weitere Demontagearbeiten durchführen kann. Wenn man keine solche Nabe hat, entfernt man zuerst eine [[Kontermutter]].


Newer Shimano hubs have rubber dustcaps which you must pop off before you can do any further disassembly. Otherwise, your first step is to loosen one locknut.


If one locknut breaks free, fine -- some hubs use a keyed washer between each cone and locknut. The washer has a "key" or tab which slides in a groove cut in the threads of the axle. This washer will keep the cone from turning with the locknut. With such a hub, you might put a wrench on the locknut at each end of the axle and unscrew one from the other. Many newer hubs leave out the keyed washer, and so, use a cone wrench on the cone, and another wrench on the locknut on the same end of the hub. Otherwise, they are likely to turn together and be hard to turn. Also see special instructions for Raleigh front hubs.
If one locknut breaks free, fine -- some hubs use a keyed washer between each cone and locknut. The washer has a "key" or tab which slides in a groove cut in the threads of the axle. This washer will keep the cone from turning with the locknut. With such a hub, you might put a wrench on the locknut at each end of the axle and unscrew one from the other. Many newer hubs leave out the keyed washer, and so, use a cone wrench on the cone, and another wrench on the locknut on the same end of the hub. Otherwise, they are likely to turn together and be hard to turn. Also see special instructions for Raleigh front hubs.
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