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The recommended amount of oil in the hub at any given time is great mystery to me. These hubs tend to leak whatever oil they have, especially if you have the old-style metal lubricator cap. Sturmey-Archer have suggested two teaspoons poured into the internals upon initial assembly and replenishments of a few drops at a time. It is unclear to me what level of oil, if any, this practice was intended to maintain. Too much oiling doesn't do any harm to the hub, but it will ruin the effectiveness of the rear brake if one does not keep after the mess. I have adopted a "little and not very often" approach which seems to keep the hubs working well and relatively clean. | The recommended amount of oil in the hub at any given time is great mystery to me. These hubs tend to leak whatever oil they have, especially if you have the old-style metal lubricator cap. Sturmey-Archer have suggested two teaspoons poured into the internals upon initial assembly and replenishments of a few drops at a time. It is unclear to me what level of oil, if any, this practice was intended to maintain. Too much oiling doesn't do any harm to the hub, but it will ruin the effectiveness of the rear brake if one does not keep after the mess. I have adopted a "little and not very often" approach which seems to keep the hubs working well and relatively clean. | ||
== | ==Laufradbau== | ||
I have found 283 mm spokes to work well with a 40-hole Endrick-style steel Dunlop rim, laced "cross 4". For a Raleigh-patent rim, shorter spokes are needed, and I think 277 mm would work (based on an old Raleigh spoke chart, the difference between Raleigh and Endrick rims is 1/4 inch, or about 6 mm for the AW). | I have found 283 mm spokes to work well with a 40-hole Endrick-style steel Dunlop rim, laced "cross 4". For a Raleigh-patent rim, shorter spokes are needed, and I think 277 mm would work (based on an old Raleigh spoke chart, the difference between Raleigh and Endrick rims is 1/4 inch, or about 6 mm for the AW). |