Grunderneuerung von Schraubkranzfreiläufen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

To remove sprockets, use one chain whip to unscrew the smallest sprocket (counterclockwise), and another hold the freewheel so that it doesn't spin backward while you unscrew that sprocket. On most freewheels, two or three outer sprockets are threaded, and unscrew. The inner ones are splined and lift off once you have replaced the threaded sprockets. Keep track of the order of the sprockets and spacers as you remove them. The inner sprockets of older European freewheels are left-threaded and come off the back! For more details on these, see the instructions in our freewheels article.

At the outer end of the freewheel, you should see a ring with two holes in it for a pin spanner to fit into. This is usually the ring which has the brand name of the freewheel marked, and may also have an arrow pointing clockwise, and the word "remove" in one language or another. If you don't see such a ring, you may need to remove the smallest sprocket to gain access to it. This is common on freewheels with 13 tooth or smaller sprockets. If you don't have a pin spanner that fits the small holes in the freewheel's outer plate, you may use a hammer and punch -- or a 12-penny nail or even an old flat-blade screwdriver -- alternately in one hole, then the other, to drive the ring in a clockwise direction.