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Kettenpflege: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

K
→‎Kettenverschleiß bestimmen: Abstzkorektur, Aufzählung richtig
K (→‎Kettenverschleiß bestimmen: Abstzkorektur, Aufzählung richtig)
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{{Ergänzung|Ergänzung von John Allen|In diesem Fall hatte Sheldon wohl recht. Jedoch kann die Kette auch die ganze Zeit oben auf den Zähnen "reiten".<br><br>Bei einem [[Ritzelpaket]] werden manche Ritzel häufiger genutzt als andere. Hier läuft die Kette manchmal auf einem fast neuen Ritzel innerhalb des ziemlich alten Ritzelpakets. Daher ist diese Kombination gar nicht so unwahrscheinlich.}}
{{Ergänzung|Ergänzung von John Allen|In diesem Fall hatte Sheldon wohl recht. Jedoch kann die Kette auch die ganze Zeit oben auf den Zähnen "reiten".<br><br>Bei einem [[Ritzelpaket]] werden manche Ritzel häufiger genutzt als andere. Hier läuft die Kette manchmal auf einem fast neuen Ritzel innerhalb des ziemlich alten Ritzelpakets. Daher ist diese Kombination gar nicht so unwahrscheinlich.}}


==Kettenverschleiß bestimmen==
===Kettenverschleiß bestimmen===
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]


This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.


    If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
*If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
    If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
*If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
    If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
*If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
    If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
*If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.


In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.
In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.


    If the rivet is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
*If the rivet is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
    If the rivet is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
*If the rivet is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
    If the rivet is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
*If the rivet is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
    More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
*More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.


There are also special tools made to measure chain wear; these are a bit more convenient, though by no means necessary, and most -- except for the Shimano TL-CN40 and TL-CN41 -- are inaccurate because they allow roller play to confound the measurement of rivet-pin wear.
There are also special tools made to measure chain wear; these are a bit more convenient, though by no means necessary, and most -- except for the Shimano TL-CN40 and TL-CN41 -- are inaccurate because they allow roller play to confound the measurement of rivet-pin wear.
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