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Dynohub: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

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A nickel-cadmium or nickel-metal hydride battery can also over-discharge, suffering permanent damage as the stronger cells drive power backwards through the weaker ones ("polarity reversal"). A "smart" system shuts off charging when the battery is full, and stops discharge at a safe level. Modern generator systems with a stay-on when stopped ("standlight") feature use an LED with a capacitor for storage, to avoid all these issues.
Auch ein NiCd oder NiFe-Akku kann tiefentladen und Schaden nehmen, wenn die stärkere der Zellen Strom durch die schwächeren Zellen leiten (Polaritätsumkehr). Ein "schlaues" System unterbricht daher den Ladevorgang des Akkus, wenn dieser voll ist und unterbricht das Entladen auf einem sicheren Level. Moderne Dynamos mit Standlichteigenschaften haben für solche Situationen eine LED mit einem Kondensator zum kurzen Speichern von Energie.
 
[[Reflektor]]en an Seite und vorne sind bei fahrendem Fahrrad quasi nutzlos, bei stehendem Fahrrad effektiv und können ein wirkungsvoller Ersatz für Dynamosysteme sein.


Front- and side-facing reflectors are nearly useless when the bicycle is moving, but they are effective when it is stopped, and are another effective backup to a generator system -- John Allen]


I used to have a Dynohub on a tandem, and the bulb consumption was unacceptable. I solved the problem (and some others) by running the Dyno's output through a full-wave bridge rectifier and then hooking the DC in parallel with a 6 volt (5 x 1.2v cell) nickel cadmium battery. This not only provided light when I was stopped, the Dyno would re-charge the nicads, and, when we went so fast that the voltage rose above 6 volts, the low internal resistance of the nicads sucked up the excess, gaining a bit of extra charge and saving the bulb.
I used to have a Dynohub on a tandem, and the bulb consumption was unacceptable. I solved the problem (and some others) by running the Dyno's output through a full-wave bridge rectifier and then hooking the DC in parallel with a 6 volt (5 x 1.2v cell) nickel cadmium battery. This not only provided light when I was stopped, the Dyno would re-charge the nicads, and, when we went so fast that the voltage rose above 6 volts, the low internal resistance of the nicads sucked up the excess, gaining a bit of extra charge and saving the bulb.
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