Einstellen der Schaltung: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

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→‎Die Begrenzungsschrauben: weiter übersetzt

Bikegeissel

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-#Low-gear limit stop.<br>The low gear limit stop (usually marked by the letter "L") stops the derailer from shifting past the largest sprocket and throwing the chain into the spokes. If it is too loose, the derailer can overshift into the spokes, with disastrous results. If it is too tight, it will be difficult or impossible to shift down to the largest rear sprocket.
+#Begrenzungsschraube L (großes Ritzel)<br>Die Begrenzungschraube für den kleinsten Gang (größtes Ritzel) wird üblicherweise mit dem Buchstaben "L" gekennzeichnet. Sie hindert das Schaltwerk daran, die Kette in die Speichen zu werfen. Falls sie zu lose ist, kann das Schaltwerk die Kette über das Ritzel hinaus überschalten und sie landet zwischen Ritzel und Speichen, was katastrophale Folgen haben kann. Wenn sie zu fest angezogen wurde, schaltet das Schaltwerk nicht (oder nur sehr unwillig) auf das größte Ritzel.
-#High-gear limit stop<br>The high gear limit stop (usually marked by the letter "H") stops the derailer from shifting past the smallest sprocket and wedging the chain between the smallest sprocket and the dropout. If it is too loose, it really doesn't make much difference on a bike with indexed shifting, because the cable will not let the derailer overshift past the smallest sprocket. If the screw is too tight, it will be difficult or impossible to shift up to the smallest rear sprocket.<br>Difficulty in upshifting to the smallest rear sprocket is rarely caused by misadjustment of the high-gear limit screw. More often, it results from the derailer's being bent, or from excess friction in the cable.
+#Begrenzungsschraube H (kleinstes Ritzel)<br>Die Begrenzungschraube für den größten Gang (kleinstes Ritzel) wird üblicherweise mit dem Buchstaben "H" gekennzeichnet. Sie hindert das Schaltwerk daran, die Kette über das kleinste Ritzel hinweg nach außen zwischen Rizel und [[Ausfallende]] zu schalten. Wenn die Schraube zu lose ist, macht das bei indexierten Schaltungen (außer beim [[Invers-Schaltwerk]]) nichts, weil die Zuglänge verhindert, dass das Schaltwerk über das Ritzel hinaus schaltet. Wenn die Schraube zu fest angezogen ist, ist es unmöglich oder sehr schwierig auf das kleinste Ritzel zu schalten.<br>Schwierigkeiten auf das kleinste Ritzel zu schalten haben zumeist nicht den Grund, dass die Begrenzungsschraube H des Schaltwerks nicht richtig eingestellt ist. Meistens liegt es an einem verbogenen Schaltwerk oder zu hoher Reibung der Schaltzüge.
 #Indexing adjustment<br>The indexing adjustment is the most frequently needed derailer adjustment. The detents (click-stops) that provide indexing are in the shifters, and the index adjustment sets the length of the cable so that the derailer is in the correct place to correspond with each click stop.<br> If a derailer is correctly adjusted when it is installed, this is the only adjustment that should have to be tweaked later on, to accommodate cable stretch, or when cables are replaced.<br>  The indexing adjustment is an adjusting barrel located at one end of a length of cable housing. Many rear derailers have more than one index adjuster. All indexed derailers have an adjuster where the final loop of cable housing ends at the derailer itself. Many bicycles also have another adjusting barrel located so that it can be adjusted while you are riding. On mountain-bike-type shifters, this will be located at the shifter itself, just where the cable exits. On road bikes with handlebar-mounted shifters, there will usually be an adjusting barrel at the cable stop where the upper length of housing ends on the upper end of the down tube.<br>It doesn't matter which of these adjustments you use: use whichever is more convenient.<br>Before you try adjusting the indexing, shift to the highest gear (smallest sprocket.) Make sure that the shifter is in the position that allows the cable to be as loose as it can get. (Exception: Shimano Rapid Rise derailers work the opposite way, so you are shifting to the largest sprocket).<br>Click the shifter to the first click after the fully loose position, then turn the pedals forward. The chain should shift to the second smallest sprocket. If it doesn't, it means the cable is too loose. Turn an adjusting barrel counter-clockwise to tighten the cable. Start with half a turn, then check again. It is very common for beginners to over-correct by turning the adjuster too far. Sometimes this will result in moving the indexing so far off that it sort-of works, except that the clicks are one notch off, so one of the extreme gears doesn't work properly, but the others appear to be OK. This is why it is important to check that the shift from the smallest to the second-smallest sprocket occurs in the right place on the shifter.<br>Fine adjustments are accomplished according to the following principles (opposite for Shimano Rapid rise derailers)::
 #*Shifting to larger sprockets is accomplished by tightening the cable;         if such shifts are slow, the cable is not tight enough--         turn the barrel counterclockwise to tighten it.