Fahrradpedale: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

===Wartung von einfachen Pedalen und Pedalen mit Pedalriemen===

Die meisten Pedale mit Pedalriemen und bessere einfache Pedale können wiederaufgebaut und neu geschmiert werden.

Pedale müssen nachjustiert werden, wenn man Spiel in den Lagern spürt - der Pedalkörper kann hin- und herbewegt werden - oder wenn sich die Lager rauh drehen.

Ein Pedal mit Metallkörper hat eine außenliegende Staubkappe, die sich mit einem Maulschlüssel oder einem Inbusschlüsel gegen den Uhrzeigersinn abschrauben lässt. Bei manchen Pedalen hat die Staubkappe eine gezahnte Außenkante, die für ein Spezialwerkzeug gedacht ist. [[Campagnolo]] und [[SR]] Staubkappen haben auf den ersten Blick Aufnahmen für das gleiche Werkzeug. Das ist aber nicht so. Manchnal kann man auch eine Zange benutzen, können aber Macken in die wertvollen italienischen Teile kratzen - che orrore! Manche Pedale haben Plastikstaubkappen, die herausgehebelt werden können. Bei vielen Gummiblockpedalen ist die Staubkappe ein Teil mit der äußeren Seite des Pedals und man legt die Lager frei, indem man diue Schrauben entfernt, die den Gummiblock am Platz halten.

 

To complete disassembly and rebuilding, you also need a socket wrench (or sometimes an open-end wrench or box wrench will do), a flat-blade screwdriver, cleaning supplies, grease, replacement bearing balls (usually 1/8 inch diameter), and possibly other replacement parts. Tweezers are useful to install bearing balls. Never re-use the old bearing balls. It's not worth the trouble trying to clean them, and it's hard to inspect them.

Some pedals have cartridge bearings, -- or you will find a locknut, a tabbed lockwasher, the outer bearing cone and bearing balls. The locknut may stick out far enough that you can grasp it with an open-end wrench. Otherwise, you'll need a socket wrench to turn it.

<center>Die verdrehsichere Unterlegscheibe mit Nase verhindert, dass sich der Lagerkonus zusammen mit der Kontermutter drehen kann.''[[Datei:Pedal-bearing-washer.JPG|center|Verdrehsichere Unterlegscheibe]]

After removing the locknut, lockwasher and bearing cone, you can lift the pedal body off the axle. Bearing balls will fall out from the inner (crank side) bearing. Clean the parts and check for pitting of the bearing tracks -- on the axle and bearing cone, and inside both ends of the pedal body..

<center>''Der rote Pfeil zeigt auf den beginnenden Lochfraß auf der Laufflächer des Lagerkonus.<br>Dieses Teil sollte schnellstmöglich getauscht werden, weil Lochfraß leider nur schlimmer wird.''[[Datei:Pedal-pitting.JPG|center|Lochfraß an der Lagerlauffläche]]

It's a good idea to keep a spare pair of pedals for parts (same make and model, then) or for a complete replacement. A bike shop may sell toe-clippable pedals at a low price because someone has replaced them with clipless pedals.

To rebuild, you essentially go backwards through the steps described above. If you check, clean and relubricate pedals yearly, they'll go for many thousands of miles.

*   With the inner (crank side) of the pedal body facing upward, place a layer of new grease, then new bearing balls, in the inner bearing cup. Use enough grease to hold the bearing balls in place, but not so much that it hides them. If in doubt about how many bearing balls to install, one too few is OK; one too many will make it impossible to adjust the bearings. Tweezers are a good tool for this job.

*   Once you have all the bearing balls in place, add plenty more grease on the axle, and insert it. Turn it with your fingers, to make sure that the bearing balls are all in place and it turns smoothly.

*   Turn the pedal over, holding the axle and body together, and chuck the axle in a vise (with soft jaws, if the vise won't hold it by the wrench flats) or install the axle on a crank -- you will need to prevent the axle from turning when you adjust the bearings. If the drank is on a bicycle, the bicycle should be lying on its side so you can drop bearing balls into place.

*   Add enough grease in the outer bearing cup to hold the new bearing balls in place. Install the bearing balls. Reassemble the bearing cone, lockwasher and locknut to the axle, not yet tightly.

*   Adjust the bearings. You can turn the bearing cone with a the side of a screwdriver blade against one of the wrench flats. Start with the bearing slightly loose, because tightening the locknut takes up play in the threading and pushes the bearing cone inward. You may need more than one try to get the adjustment right. When you are finished, the bearings should turn freely, but with zero or minimal free play.

*   Once you no longer need to access the bearing parts, add plenty more grease -- which not only lubricates but also keeps out contaminants. Replace the dustcap. It isn't a bad idea to use blue threadlock compound on dustcap threads, so the dustcap won't unscrew in service.

Sheldon's article in Adventure Cycling about pedals for touring

 

[[Kategorie:In Arbeit]]