Grunderneuerung von Schraubkranzfreiläufen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

Statt der speziellen Klemmen kann man ein Gummiband mit einem Stück Faden verbinden. Man muss den Freilauf vom Laufrad entfernen, damit man an seine Rückseite herankommt, wenn er zusammengebaut wird. Baue die Sperrklinken in de Freilaufkern ein und spanne das Gummiband um die Sperrklinken, damit sie gegen die Federn eingedrückt werden. Falls Du kein passendes Gummiband zur Hand hast, kannst Du auch den Faden in mehrfachen Schlingen herumführen. Sobald der äußere Freilaufkörper mehr oder weniger an seinem Platz istm kann man am Faden ziehen und das Gummiband durch die linke Seite des Freilaufs herausziehen.

After seating the pawls, listen as you slowly rotate the outer body backwards. You should hear "tick, tock, tick, tock" if the ratchet in the outer body has an odd number of teeth and two pawls, so one engages at a time. If more than one pawl engages at the same time, as on many SunTour freewheels, you should hear ticktick, ticktick, ticktick.

At this time, you can drip oil down into the gap between the inner and outer bodies. Thin oil is easier to clean out without disassembling the freewheel. Phil Wood oil is thick enough to quiet the mechanism, though thin enough not to gum up the pawls. (Some newer off-brand Freehubs sound like a swarm of bees when riders are coasting!) Run the oil down the outside next to the bearing race. Avoid getting it onto the threads of the inner body.

If you were only removing a shim, or oil went to the wrong place, you may need to clean the threads of the outer ring and the mating threads of the inner body so threadlock compound will work. This is possible with Q-Tips and solvent without further disassembly. Then reinstall the shims. The shims will prevent bearing balls from falling down inside the mechanism.

After cleaning, pour the bearing balls in and distribute them. You may need to apply a light film of grease to hold them in place, but avoid getting it on the threads. Apply a couple drops of blue threadlock compound to the outer-ring threads before reinstalling it -- only a couple of drops, and only to the threads of the ring, so you don't gum up the bearings or the pawls. Apply more grease to the bearing race on the outside of the outer ring.

The outer ring threads on counterclockwise, so tightening it will tend to loosen the freewheel from the wheel. Thread the outer ring on as far as it will go without tightening it. Tighten the freewheel onto the wheel using a sprocket and chain whip or a freewheel remover so you have enough purchase to tighten the lockring. Tighten the lockring with a pin spanner or with a hammer and punch, alternating between the two holes.

SunTour new Winner body

The New Winner body is cleverly designed to take 5 or 6 sprockets in 5.5mm spacing; 6 or 7 sprockets in 5mm spacing. The outer sprocket can be as small as 13 teeth with 6 sprockets, or 12 teeth with 7 sprockets. New Winner bodies have an adjustable lockring rather than shims and generally were supplied in correct adjustment. Two of the special tools shown below, now rare, are needed to disassemble or adjust the New Winner body, but this work is very rarely necessary.

Freehub disassembly tool Most Shimano Freehub dodies may be serviced in the same way as conventional freewheels, but as already said, it is hardly ever worth the trouble. You'll need a fairly hard-to-find old-style Shimano special tool (TL-FH 40) to unscrew the cup, which is also the cone for the main bearings. Cassette bodies of other brands require different tools or may not be rebuildable.