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Reparatur von Ledersätteln: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

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You need only replace the rivets at the rear of the saddle. The metal shoe inside the nose of the saddle comes off with the top, once you have removed the rivets at the rear. Copper rivets suitable for saddle repair are available at hobby shops, online and from the saddle repairers listed in this article. After flattening large rivets at the inside, you may want to pound their edges down at the outside. An anvil may help. Keep reading for detailed isntructions.
Man muss nur die Nieten an der hinteren Seite des Sattels ersetzen. Der Metallschuh in der Sattelnase wird mit der Satteldecke abgehoben, wenn man die hinteren Nieten entfernt hat. Kupfernieten, die für die Sattelreparatur geeignet sind, gibt es in Bastelspezialgeschäften, online oder von Sattelreparaturgeschäften, die hier im Artikel erwähnt werden. Wenn man die großen Nieten im Inneren des Sattels flach geklopft hat, möchte man die Kanten an der Außenseite flach schlagen. Dabei hilft ein Amboss. Detailliertere Anleitungsschritte folgen.


[[Datei:Pound-rivetssm.jpg|center|Nieten ausschlagen]]
[[Datei:Pound-rivetssm.jpg|center|Nieten ausschlagen]]


Preferably, when cannibalizing saddles, use an undercarriage with matching locations of rivet holes. If the sheet-metal piece at the rear of both saddles is of approximately the same shape and width, you could drill new rivet holes -- in the metal, not the leather. The two saddles shown in the next picture are not compatible, because the width is too different.
Vorzugsweise sollte man beim Ausschlachten von Sätteln und Wiederverwenden des Unterbaus darauf achten, dass die Nietenlöcher möglichst an den gleichen Stellen liegen. Falls das gerundete Metallstück am Sattelende ungefähr die gleiche Form hat, kann man dort im Metall auch neue Nietenlöcher bohren (niemals im Leder bohren). Die zwei Sättel im folgenden Bild passen nicht zusammen, weil die Breite zu unterschiedlich ist.


[[Datei:Rear of saddles.jpg|center|Sättel unterschiedlicher Breite]]
[[Datei:Rear of saddles.jpg|center|Sättel unterschiedlicher Breite]]
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The saddle on the left in the image above is a top-of-the-line Idéale Model 92. The leather is Rodée Main Selon DRebour (broken-in by hand, using the process developed by the great bicycling illustrator Daniel Rebour). Tne aluminum undercarriage cracked around the clamp-bolt hole, and the nose of the saddle would not stay up. These saddles in good shape go for big bucks now. That is all about style and their rarity: the design is flawed. Well, steel saddle rails also do break. In the photo below, I have removed the leather and inserted new rivets.
The saddle on the left in the image above is a top-of-the-line Idéale Model 92. The leather is Rodée Main Selon DRebour (broken-in by hand, using the process developed by the great bicycling illustrator Daniel Rebour). Tne aluminum undercarriage cracked around the clamp-bolt hole, and the nose of the saddle would not stay up. These saddles in good shape go for big bucks now. That is all about style and their rarity: the design is flawed. Well, steel saddle rails also do break. In the photo below, I have removed the leather and inserted new rivets.


Idéale model 92 disassembled
[[Datei:Ideal392disassembled.jpg|center|Idéale Modell 92 demontiert]]


The rivet locations and the shoe in the nose of the saddle are identical to those of an Idéale Model 80 with cracked leather that I bought for $26 on eBay. This is what happens if a leather saddle is left out in the rain for years, and never re-oiled
The rivet locations and the shoe in the nose of the saddle are identical to those of an Idéale Model 80 with cracked leather that I bought for $26 on eBay. This is what happens if a leather saddle is left out in the rain for years, and never re-oiled
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