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Sturmey-Archer SW Drei-Gang-Naben: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen
Sturmey-Archer SW Drei-Gang-Naben (Quelltext anzeigen)
Version vom 5. Juli 2021, 08:17 Uhr
, 5. Juli 2021→Federvorgespannte Sperrklinken: weiter...
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====Federvorgespannte Sperrklinken==== | ====Federvorgespannte Sperrklinken==== | ||
Eine mehr oder weniger nachhaltige Reparatur des Sperrklinken-Problems kann durch federvorgespannte Sperrklinken erreicht werden. Brian hayes hat erfolgreich einen rechtsseitigen Sperrklinkenring so modifiziert, dass er kleine Blattfedern an der Unterkante der Sperrklinkenbuchsen aufnehmen kann und die Sperrklinken somit immer aufgerichtet sind. Diese Reparatur hat grundsätzlich alle durchrutschenden Sperrklinken-Probleme eliminiert. Die Schaltvorgänge sind viel besser geworden und das ist vermutlich die nachhaltigste Lösung für eine zuverlässige Nabe. Wenn Du Interesse an dieser Modifikation hast, kommt hier die Beschreibung für den Umbau: | |||
[[Datei:Pawl-ring-pawl-socket-cutoff.jpg|right|Schneiden eines Schlitzes für eine Blattfeder]]Using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool, make some shallow cuts at the bottom of the pawl sockets as shown. cutoff wheel The depth should not be too great, perhaps around 1/16th of an inch or so. Also, be careful to keep the slot as short as practical so as not to weaken the pawl ring (L11) too much. Next, some suitable spring material must be scavenged to place in these slots. I found that a camera wind-lever spring worked well for this purpose, but anything similar will do — look for flat, spiral shaped springs in old mechanical clocks, cameras, toys, etc. The final spring configuration I arrived at was about 1/16th of an inch wide and around 3/8ths of an inch long, providing firm springing action against the bottom of the pawls. If I do this again, I might try something a bit more flexible such as the film-chamber pressure plate from the same junk camera. Any thin, flat spring that can be bow-shaped will probably work. pawl ringMake sure that whatever spring material you use, your Dremel cuts are deep enough to allow the springs to be totally recessed. In operation, the large pawl retaining washer (L13) and the thrust spring (L15) will keep these pawl springs in place.[[Datei:Paw-ring-improved-pawl-sockets.jpg|left|Blattfeder in Sperrklinkenbuchse]] | [[Datei:Pawl-ring-pawl-socket-cutoff.jpg|right|Schneiden eines Schlitzes für eine Blattfeder]]Using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool, make some shallow cuts at the bottom of the pawl sockets as shown. cutoff wheel The depth should not be too great, perhaps around 1/16th of an inch or so. Also, be careful to keep the slot as short as practical so as not to weaken the pawl ring (L11) too much. Next, some suitable spring material must be scavenged to place in these slots. I found that a camera wind-lever spring worked well for this purpose, but anything similar will do — look for flat, spiral shaped springs in old mechanical clocks, cameras, toys, etc. The final spring configuration I arrived at was about 1/16th of an inch wide and around 3/8ths of an inch long, providing firm springing action against the bottom of the pawls. If I do this again, I might try something a bit more flexible such as the film-chamber pressure plate from the same junk camera. Any thin, flat spring that can be bow-shaped will probably work. pawl ringMake sure that whatever spring material you use, your Dremel cuts are deep enough to allow the springs to be totally recessed. In operation, the large pawl retaining washer (L13) and the thrust spring (L15) will keep these pawl springs in place.[[Datei:Paw-ring-improved-pawl-sockets.jpg|left|Blattfeder in Sperrklinkenbuchse]] | ||