Sturmey-Archer SW Drei-Gang-Naben: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

Wenn man erwägt, eine solche Nabe zu reparieren, sollte man sich zuerst gründlich mit dem Aufbau der Nabe vertraut machen. Das erreicht man am besten, indem man sich die Schnittzeichnung, die Explosionszeichnung und die Teileliste auf der [https://hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/sasw.pdf Website von Tony Hadland (Pdf/englisch)] ansieht. Alle folgenden Vorschläge setzen voraus, dass der geneigte Leser diese Ressourcen zur Verfügung hat.

If your hub is slipping as soon as pedal force is applied in low gear, the problem is probably with the left-side pawls. One of the easiest ways to get it working again (provided the pawl damage is minimal) is to disassemble, clean, and swap the position of the low-gear and high-gear pawls (left side to right side). Furthermore, it should be evident from the dimple and/or chips which direction they were originally oriented in their respective sockets. Switching the direction will load the pawls in the opposite direction, and provided they are free to oscillate and are not too worn, is essentially equal to using new pawls. Since NOS pawls are as rare as hen's teeth, it makes good sense to use up all the available life from each pawl. You may also want to experiment with individual pawl locations until the right-side pawls all consistently pick up and fully engage. Check this by assembling the hub internals and operating the ratchet by hand. I do not recommend applying grease to the pawl sockets as an installation aid; a drop of oil works well enough to keep pawls in place while assembling, and you won't have to worry about the potential sluggish engagement of pawls.

If your hub is slipping only in normal or high gear, the problem can also be due to worn pawl-ring dogs in addition to pawl problems, and a simple fix can be affected by increasing the spring's engaging force by stretching the large spring (L15) to increase its free length. This increases the trigger pull into low gear and probably also accelerates wear, so it's important not to overdo it. If the pawl-ring dogs are not too worn, this may be all that's needed to restore proper operation, but in the long term, it may be necessary to regrind the dogs or replace the gear ring and/or pawl ring.

Let me begin here by stating that I assume the reader is very familiar with Sturmey-Archer gearing in general, especially with the ubiquitous AW. If you are new to three-speed planetary hubs, I suggest you find an AW hub and take it apart for practice. Having said this, there is only one area of SW adjustment that requires special attention: the bearing cones. Unlike the tolerant AW, the adjustments should be as close as possible to zero "play". Tight adjustment ensures the best-possible centering accuracy, which in turn improves the chances of three simultaneous pawl engagements. If the bearing adjustments are too loose, you will almost certainly end up with pawl problems, even with new parts. The importance of keeping the centering accuracy good is evidenced by the design evolution of the low gear side's planet cage having a centering lip added.

The adjustment of conventional indicator spindles is best accomplished (in my opinion) with the Sheldon Brown method: in low gear, the chain should have just a tiny bit of extra travel when pulled further outward, and in high gear the cable should be slack. Since many of these hubs do not have indicator windows in the right axle nut (N200) (presumably due to the change mentioned next), this is the only practical way to adjust the spindle, unless replacement nuts with windows are used.

Conventional right-side indicators can replace the two-piece indicators even if the hub originally was not configured this way. The only trick is finding a threaded axle key made for the SW or making your own. Fortunately, making your own is easy — just whittle down the ends of an axle key from any AW hub until it fits properly in the clutch sleeve and sliding clutch. The two-piece, left-side indicator/toggle chain arrangement is easier to adjust properly, however, and I recommend keeping this arrangement unless you have damaged parts.

Make sure burrs on the pinion teeth are ground smooth. If the burrs face the spacer ring (L6), it will experience excessive wear and probably an increase in drag until the parts wear in. Allowing things to wear in on their own can really chew up the spacer ring, however, so I suggest removing any burrs from the planet teeth.

==Reparaturen und Modifikationen für ein langes Laben==

===Parts selection===