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Falls sich Patrcick und Christine als Anfängertandemkäufer für ein Mountainbiketandem entscheiden, haben sie eine gute Chance, dass es für sie funktionieren wird und sie die frühen Fallstricke vermeiden. Hauptgründe hierfür sind [[Lenker]] und [[Reifen]]. | Falls sich Patrcick und Christine als Anfängertandemkäufer für ein Mountainbiketandem entscheiden, haben sie eine gute Chance, dass es für sie funktionieren wird und sie die frühen Fallstricke vermeiden. Hauptgründe hierfür sind [[Lenker]] und [[Reifen]]. | ||
== | ==Lenker== | ||
Ein Kapitän auf dem Tandem zu sein, ist deutlich anstrengende für die obere Körperhälfte als das Fharen auf einem Solo. Beim Solo wird das Steuern und Balance halten im Wesentlichen durch Gewichtsverlagerung erledigt. Beim Tandem - insbesondere mit einem unerfahrenen Stoker - ist das Gesmatgewicht mehr oder weniger komplett unter der Kontrolle des Kapitäns. Daher muss der Lenker mit deutlich mehr Kraft bewegt werden. Daher werden Tandems überwiegend mit breitereb Lenkern als Solos ausgestattet. Aber sogar 44 oder 46 cm breite [Dropbar]]s geben weniger Gefühl der Kontrolle als ein [[aufrecht|gerader Lenker]]. | |||
Ein Kapitänsneuling (der auch ein erfahrener Solo Fharer sein kann) hat mit geraden Lenkern bessere Kontrolle. Der Stoker wird diese bessere Kontrolle spüren und sich sicherer fühlen und entspannter sein. Zusätzlich wird das Tandem langsamer sein, was für einen nervösen Stoker ein deutliches Plus darstellt. Falls dem Kapitän die vielen Möglichen Handpositionen des Dropbars fehlen, können [[Lenkerhörnchen]] nachgerüstet werden. | |||
==Reifen== | |||
The problem of stoker saddle discomfort is very real, and many approaches have been used to deal with it, including wider saddles, sprung saddles, sprung seatposts, and combinations of these. An additional line of attack that works very well is to use a wider, lower pressure rear tire. Road type tandems with 622 mm (700c) of 630 mm (27") wheels cannot compare with 559 mm (26") mountain bike type wheels for availability of wide tires with street type tread. A wider tire not only gives a much softer ride, it also increases the stability of the bike on imperfect road surfaces. | The problem of stoker saddle discomfort is very real, and many approaches have been used to deal with it, including wider saddles, sprung saddles, sprung seatposts, and combinations of these. An additional line of attack that works very well is to use a wider, lower pressure rear tire. Road type tandems with 622 mm (700c) of 630 mm (27") wheels cannot compare with 559 mm (26") mountain bike type wheels for availability of wide tires with street type tread. A wider tire not only gives a much softer ride, it also increases the stability of the bike on imperfect road surfaces. | ||
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A further plus of mountain bike wheels is their greater durability and reliability. Skinny tired tandems are often called "tantrums" because of the incidence of tire, rim and spoke problems. Quality skinny-tire tandems always have to use at least 40 spoke wheels or more often 48's. The natural cushioning of a mountain-bike tire allows the use of ordinary 36 spoke wheels with excellent reliability. | A further plus of mountain bike wheels is their greater durability and reliability. Skinny tired tandems are often called "tantrums" because of the incidence of tire, rim and spoke problems. Quality skinny-tire tandems always have to use at least 40 spoke wheels or more often 48's. The natural cushioning of a mountain-bike tire allows the use of ordinary 36 spoke wheels with excellent reliability. | ||
==Geometrie== | |||
One should note that there is one major difference in frame geometry between tandems that are "mountain-bike type" and those that are built for real off-road use, and that is the bottom bracket height. Tandems in general need higher bottom brackets than comparable solos because their longer wheelbase brings the bottom bracket closer to the road when cresting a hill. Tandems made for serious off-road riding need extra-high bottom brackets even by mountain-bike standards. This type of bike is not as good a choice for road use, because the extra high bottom bracket makes it much harder to start and stop, especially for less experienced tandemists. | One should note that there is one major difference in frame geometry between tandems that are "mountain-bike type" and those that are built for real off-road use, and that is the bottom bracket height. Tandems in general need higher bottom brackets than comparable solos because their longer wheelbase brings the bottom bracket closer to the road when cresting a hill. Tandems made for serious off-road riding need extra-high bottom brackets even by mountain-bike standards. This type of bike is not as good a choice for road use, because the extra high bottom bracket makes it much harder to start and stop, especially for less experienced tandemists. | ||
I don't mean to say that high-performance, road-type tandems are obsolete, by any means. My point is that for most couples buying their first tandem, a "mountain bike" model is more likely to give them a positive start, and less likely to gather dust for lack of a contented stoker. For those who develop as tandemists to the point that they are bothered by the limitations of this type of tandem, they can always trade up later, since used tandems hold a much higher percentage of their value than solo bikes do. | I don't mean to say that high-performance, road-type tandems are obsolete, by any means. My point is that for most couples buying their first tandem, a "mountain bike" model is more likely to give them a positive start, and less likely to gather dust for lack of a contented stoker. For those who develop as tandemists to the point that they are bothered by the limitations of this type of tandem, they can always trade up later, since used tandems hold a much higher percentage of their value than solo bikes do. | ||
==Quelle== | ==Quelle== |