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Wartung von Sturmey-Archer Acht-Gang-Naben: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

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General information
The 8-speed Sturmey-Archer hubs have an innovative, modular design with 3 planetary systems one after the other. If a module's sun gear is locked to the axle, it has an increase ratio, and if not, a unity ratio. Each of the three modules has a different increase ratio. The eight possible combinations offer eight different speeds.
 
Another article on this site covers topics common to many Sturmey-Archer hubs. Please read that article to learn about
 
    Date and model identification
    Cable replacement
    Cable adjustment
    Cone Adjustment
    Anti-rotation washers
    Axle length
    Lubrication
 
There are also articles on this site more generally about
 
    Internal-gear hubs
    Cribsheet -- Sturmey-Archer hubs since the 1930s
    Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer hubs
    Special alignment and adjustment (Dynohubs, hub brakes, shifter parts)
    Use and maintenance of Sturmey-Archer hubs
    Parts and names (older Sturmey-Archer hubs)
    Sturmey-Archer corporate history and hub models
 
Spoke Divider
 
Spoke Divider
Gearing
 
old English The 8-speed Sturmey-Archer hubs have an innovative, modular design with 3 planetary systems one after the other. If a module's sun gear is locked to the axle, it has an increase ratio, and if not, a unity ratio. Each of the three modules has a different increase ratio. The eight possible combinations offer eight different speeds.


Because these hubs only gear up, they require a much smaller chainwheel than other hubs and are especially well-suited to a small-wheel bicycle. These hubs are most efficient in the lowest gear, which passes power directly from the driver to the hub shell, and least efficient in the highest gear, which uses all three modules.
Because these hubs only gear up, they require a much smaller chainwheel than other hubs and are especially well-suited to a small-wheel bicycle. These hubs are most efficient in the lowest gear, which passes power directly from the driver to the hub shell, and least efficient in the highest gear, which uses all three modules.
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There is more detailed information on sprockets and on setting the gear range on another page. Also see Sheldon's take on setting the gear range for this hub, on his 8-speed Raleigh Twenty page. Different (pedal) strokes for different folks...
There is more detailed information on sprockets and on setting the gear range on another page. Also see Sheldon's take on setting the gear range for this hub, on his 8-speed Raleigh Twenty page. Different (pedal) strokes for different folks...
Technical issues
==Technik==


A few technical issues are important when specifying, installing or rebuilding these hubs:
A few technical issues are important when specifying, installing or rebuilding these hubs:


    The right-side ball ring unscrews counterclockwise from the hub shell, according to the most reliable . information we have. Sturmey-Archer has published information indicating both directions! This ball ring does not include a ratchet, unlike those of most Sturmey-Archer internal-gear hubs.
* The right-side ball ring unscrews counterclockwise from the hub shell, according to the most reliable . information we have. Sturmey-Archer has published information indicating both directions! This ball ring does not include a ratchet, unlike those of most Sturmey-Archer internal-gear hubs.
    Reliability has been an issue with these hubs, though it appears to be improving with newer production.
* Reliability has been an issue with these hubs, though it appears to be improving with newer production.
    These hubs are grease-lubricated and have no port through which oil can be introduced. Oil can be added after unscrewing the left ball cup. These hubs should be disassembled and relubricated periodically. Disassembly is fairly easy with the newer models. It may be advisable to relubricate before installing a new hub: see advice here.
* These hubs are grease-lubricated and have no port through which oil can be introduced. Oil can be added after unscrewing the left ball cup. These hubs should be disassembled and relubricated periodically. Disassembly is fairly easy with the newer models. It may be advisable to relubricate before installing a new hub: see advice here.
    Stout antirotation washers should be used, preferably both inside and outside the dropouts. See advice here. Also, gear down and spin rather than pushing hard in a high gear. As the lowest gear ratio is unity, torque on the axle decreases, the lower the gear.
* Stout antirotation washers should be used, preferably both inside and outside the dropouts. See advice here. Also, gear down and spin rather than pushing hard in a high gear. As the lowest gear ratio is unity, torque on the axle decreases, the lower the gear.
    The sprocket is unlike the one used on most other internal-gear hubs. The center hole is much larger, and the sprocket is available only with 20, 23 or 25 teeth. The sprocket has three lugs and is held in place by a circlip (snap ring). The 20 and 23-tooth versions are flat; the 25-tooth version is also available dished.
* The sprocket is unlike the one used on most other internal-gear hubs. The center hole is much larger, and the sprocket is available only with 20, 23 or 25 teeth. The sprocket has three lugs and is held in place by a circlip (snap ring). The 20 and 23-tooth versions are flat; the 25-tooth version is also available dished.
    The brakeless version is especially well-suited to older bicycles with narrow rear dropout spacing. By the choice of locknuts and by using the brakeless version of the hub, the overlocknut distance can be smaller than for any other internal-gear hub with 7 or more speeds -- as little as 115 mm.
* The brakeless version is especially well-suited to older bicycles with narrow rear dropout spacing. By the choice of locknuts and by using the brakeless version of the hub, the overlocknut distance can be smaller than for any other internal-gear hub with 7 or more speeds -- as little as 115 mm.
    If you're going to use rim brakes and a 130mm or 135mm overlocknut distance, get the "K", disc brake version rather than the "F" freewheel version. The "K" has a natively wider hub shell and better bearing placement. (Thanks to Prester John on the Geared Hub Bikes e-mail list for this advice.) But this version may also require a larger chainline.
* If you're going to use rim brakes and a 130mm or 135mm overlocknut distance, get the "K", disc brake version rather than the "F" freewheel version. The "K" has a natively wider hub shell and better bearing placement. (Thanks to Prester John on the Geared Hub Bikes e-mail list for this advice.) But this version may also require a larger chainline.
    Sturmey-Archer sells cranksets adapted to this hub, with tooth counts in the 30s, and designed to work with a full chain case.
* Sturmey-Archer sells cranksets adapted to this hub, with tooth counts in the 30s, and designed to work with a full chain case.
    These hubs shift with a pulley mechanism concentric with the axle inboard of the frame, and use different shifters from other Sturmey-Archer hubs. The newer (W) versions cleverly allow the pulley mechanism to be installed at different angles, so that only one type or antirotation washers is necessary, regardless of the angle of the dropout slots.
* These hubs shift with a pulley mechanism concentric with the axle inboard of the frame, and use different shifters from other Sturmey-Archer hubs. The newer (W) versions cleverly allow the pulley mechanism to be installed at different angles, so that only one type or antirotation washers is necessary, regardless of the angle of the dropout slots.


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== Technische Informationen zu Modellen ab 2009 ==
 
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Technical information on 2009- models


The 2009- models are very similar to the first series, but a different tool is used to remove the screw-in right ball cup, and obviously, many of the internal parts are different. A part number ending in (W) is sometimes used to distinguish the 2009- hubs from the earlier models, but not consistently, possibly leading to confusion. The ball ring of the newer-series hubs has six notches for the ball-ring removal tool, the older series, two notches. Parts in parts lists for hubs made since 2009, with or without the (W), are compatible. You may compare the two parts lists for the XRD8(W) linked below to confirm this.
The 2009- models are very similar to the first series, but a different tool is used to remove the screw-in right ball cup, and obviously, many of the internal parts are different. A part number ending in (W) is sometimes used to distinguish the 2009- hubs from the earlier models, but not consistently, possibly leading to confusion. The ball ring of the newer-series hubs has six notches for the ball-ring removal tool, the older series, two notches. Parts in parts lists for hubs made since 2009, with or without the (W), are compatible. You may compare the two parts lists for the XRD8(W) linked below to confirm this.
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X-RK8 (W) Disk brake fitting Parts list
X-RK8 (W) Disk brake fitting Parts list
Installation instructions.
Installation instructions.
Technical information on discontinued models, ca. 2004-2009)
 
== Technische Informationen zu Modellen ca. 2004 bis 2009 (eingestellt) ==


Technical documentation is available for some of these models.
Technical documentation is available for some of these models.
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X-RR8 Roller brake Like X-RF8
X-RR8 Roller brake Like X-RF8


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== Siehe auch ==
 
 
Another article on this site covers topics common to many Sturmey-Archer hubs. Please read that article to learn about
 
*    Date and model identification
*    Cable replacement
*    Cable adjustment
*    Cone Adjustment
*    Anti-rotation washers
*    Axle length
*    Lubrication
 
There are also articles on this site more generally about
 
*    Internal-gear hubs
*    Cribsheet -- Sturmey-Archer hubs since the 1930s
*    Disassembly of Sturmey-Archer hubs
*    Special alignment and adjustment (Dynohubs, hub brakes, shifter parts)
*    Use and maintenance of Sturmey-Archer hubs
*    Parts and names (older Sturmey-Archer hubs)
*    Sturmey-Archer corporate history and hub models
 


Spoke Divider
Sturmey-Archer Informationen
Links
* Official Site
Sturmey-Archer logo
* old Sturmey-Archer logo Heritage site
Official Site
* Three-Speed Parts from Harris Cyclery
old Sturmey-Archer logo Heritage site
* English Three Speeds, Care and Feeding
Three-Speed Parts from Harris Cyclery
* Internal-Gear Hubs
English Three Speeds, Care and Feeding
* Sturmey-Archer Hubs, General Information
Internal-Gear Hubs
* Sturmey-Archer 1902-1952
Sturmey-Archer Hubs, General Information
* Sturmey-Archer 1935-38 Catalogues
Sturmey-Archer 1902-1952
* Evolution of the Raleigh Sports
Sturmey-Archer 1935-38 Catalogues
* Sheldon's 8-speed Raleigh Twenty
Evolution of the Raleigh Sports
* John Allen's spreadsheets of internal-hub gear ratios
sheldon's 8-speed Raleigh Twenty
* Martin Hanczyc's roadster pages.
Sheldon's 8-speed Raleigh Twenty
* Tony Hadland's Sturmey-Archer Pages including the 1956 master catalogue with rebuilding information for SWs and others.
John Allen's spreadsheets of internal-hub gear ratios
* Hubstripping web site
Martin Hanczyc's roadster pages.
* Retro Raleighs
Tony Hadland's Sturmey-Archer Pages
* SW Hubs by Brian Hayes
including the 1956 master catalogue with
* Jane Thomas's site with Sturmey-Archer service manuals.
rebuilding information for SWs and others.
* Menotomy Vintage Bicycles
Hubstripping web site
* Chat forum on English bikes.
Retro Raleighs
SW Hubs by Brian Hayes
Jane Thomas's site with
Sturmey-Archer service manuals.
Menotomy Vintage Bicycles
Chat forum on English bikes.


==Quelle==
==Quelle==
15.340

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