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By selecting an appropriate-sized sprocket and chainwheel, the overall range of any internal-gear hub can be raised or lowered by any desired amount. Most current internal-gear hubs take 3-splined sprockets with 1 3/8 inch inside diameter, interchangeable among brands. These sprockets are available from various sources from 13-24 teeth, though some hubs can't accept the smallest sprockets.

The Rohloff uses a special threaded sprocket; the SRAM i-Motion 9, G8 and G9 hubs and Sturmey-Archer 8-speeds use proprietary lugged sprockets; a few Sturmey-Archer models have 9 splines like a Shimano Freehub. Model numbers for these hubs end in "(N)".

Many of the common 3-lug sprockets are made for 1/8" chain -- wider than the chain used with derailer gearing. The wider chain can be used with thin chainwheels made for use with derailers, though special track chainwheels have teeth that are both taller and wider, and allow the chain to become looser before it could fall off. 3-lug sprockets for derailer chain are sold, stamped with raised sections around the hole so they fit the hub the same way as thicker sprockets. With the narrower sprockets, use chain made for a 7-speed or 8-speed derailer system.

The sprocket of most internal-gear hubs is held in position by a spring circlip (snap ring). The circlip can be pried off with a thin flat-blade screwdriver, and the sprocket can then be lifted off. Most sprockets made for this system (including those shown above) are "dished" so you can adjust the chainline by flipping the sprocket over. The circlip snaps on, also most easily by levering it into position with a flat-blade screwdriver. Some hubs will accept a smaller sprocket dished outward than inward, due to interference problems. Some hubs, have one or two spacer washers in addition to the sprocket. Changing the order in which the spacer washer(s) and sprocket are installed on the hub can adjust the chainline.

Except with a fixed-gear or coaster-brake hub, it is possible to double the useful life of a 3-lug sprocket by flipping it over so the wear is on the other side of the teeth -- as long as you can achieve a good chainline.