Einstellen der Schaltung: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

  Campagnolo Schaltwerke mit großer Gangspreizung haben absichtlich die Kettenführungsrollen nicht exakt untereinander stehen. Die Spannrolle muss etwas weiter außen angeordnet sein als die Leitrolle.

derailer

The limit stops are two screws that set the limits of how far the derailer can move from left to right. They are usually located on the back of the parallelogram; sometimes they face outward to the bicycle's right. The ends of a screw bumps into an internal part of the parallelogram when the derailer has moved all the way in the direction controlled by that screw.

#*Shifting to smaller sprockets is accomplished by loosening the cable;        if such shifts are too slow, the cable is not loose enough--        turn the barrel clockwise to loosen it.    If the rear indexing works properly when using the large chainwheel but not on the small chainwheel, or vice-versa, this is often a sign that the rear derailer hanger is bent.

#Angle adjustment ("B-tension")<br>    Modern derailers have two spring-loaded pivots. The lower pivot, sometimes called the "a pivot" winds the cage up to take up slack as you go to smaller sprockets. The upper "b pivot" adds additional slack take-up ability by pushing the derailer's parallelogram backwards.<br>    The tension of the two springs needs to be balanced for best shifting.<br>    Most derailers have an angle adjustment screw (Shimano calls it "B-tension adjustment"). This adjusts the tension of the upper ("b") spring of the parallelogram, and thus the height of the jockey pulley. The looser this screw is, the closer the jockey pulley will be to the cluster.<br>    The angle adjustment will need to be set according to the size of the largest rear sprocket. If you change to a cluster with a larger or smaller low-gear sprocket, you will need to re-adjust this setting. You will also need to adjust this if you change the length of your chain.<br>    If the angle adjuster is set too loose, the jockey pulley will bump into the largest sprocket when the bicycle is in the lowest gear (large rear, small front). This is the gear you should check the adjustment in. A larger low-gear sprocket may require a different rear derailer, for enough angle adjustment to clear the sprocket. In extreme cases, such as with a Shimano 36-tooth sprocket, a longer angle-adjustment screw may be needed -- some people even install the screw backwards.<br>    Since a derailer shift is caused by forcing the chain to run at an angle, the greater the angle, the sooner it will shift. The closer the jockey pulley is to the cluster, the sharper the angle will be for a given amount of sideways motion of the derailer. Thus, the looser the angle adjuster screw is, the better the shifting will be.

2001 and later Campagnolo rear derailers don't use a "b tension" adjustment. Instead, they have an "a tension" adjustment. Spring balancing is done with this adjustment, but in the opposite direction. That is, loosening the "a tension" has the same effect as tightening the "b tension."

If you replace your chain or sprockets, you should check your chain length. New chains come longer than they need to be for the vast majority of bicycles. You will almost certainly need to shorten a new chain before installing it on your bicycle. If your large sprocket sizes are anywhere near the maximum your rear derailer can handle, the chain length can be quite critical.

Spoke Divider

Chain condition will have an effect on how well your system shifts; in particular, if you chain is dry and rusty, it will not shift well, because the links will be stiff.

A worn chain will usually not be the cause of shifting problems, but usually is the cause of skipping under load.

If you have a regular, repeating skip or hitch every 3 or 4 turns of the pedals, you may have a stiff chain link. This is commonly the link where the chain was joined when it was installed. When the chain tool presses the pin through the chain, the head of the pin tends to pull the uppermost chain plate along with it, so that the two outer plates are squeezing together against the inner plates.

The easiest way to spot stiff/damaged links is to shift the bike into the small/small gear (the gear you should never actually ride in.) This gear has the chain at its slackest, and flexes it farther than any other gear, as it goes around the small rear sprocket and the derailer pulleys. Slowly backpedal while watching the chain as it feeds through the rear derailer, and you will usually be able to see the bad link jump.

==Einstellen des Umwerfers (vorne)==