Alles über Rücktrittbremsen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

* Das Fahrrad kann vorwärts rollen, ohne dass die Pedale vorwärts angetrieben werden. Das ist die Freilauffunktion der Nabe (daher wird Sie im englischen Sprachraum auch "Coaster Brake" zu Deutsch "Freilaufbremse" genannt). Hier gibt es verschiedene Mechanismen, das zu erreichen.

Die klassische einfache Rücktrittbremsennabe ist ohne Gangschaltung. Jedoch kann eine solche Nabe auch mit eine Rücktrittbremse ausgestattet sein.

* Das [[Ritzel]] ist normalerweise durch einen [[Federring]] am Mitnehmer befestigt. Manche älteren Modelle haben Ritzel mit einem [[Lock Ring]] ähnlicher eine [[Fixe Gear]] Nabe befestigt.

==Adjustment==

There's basically only one adjustment to be made on a single-speed coaster brake, the adjustment of the bearing cones. This adjustment can usually be made without even removing the wheel from the bike.

The left cone is attached to the reaction arm (the arm that runs below the left chainstay, and is secured to the chainstay by a clamp of some sort.)

If you loosen both axle nuts, and stick a cone wrench onto the right side cone, or its locknut, you can turn the whole axle. Since the left cone is immobilized by the reaction arm, turning the axle will adjust the cone.

===English Coaster Brake Adjustment:===

To adjust the cones on an English coaster hub, you leave it in the bike, but loosen both axle nuts. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the whole axle, screwing it in or out of the left cone, then re-tighten the axle nuts once the cone adjustment is correct.

Any coaster brake that has a square end on the axle is intended to be adjusted this way.

[[Datei:Hsl717crop.jpg|right|Ein Ritzel mit drei Nuten]]

3-lug sprocketMost newer single-speed coaster brakes use the same 3-splined sprockets as are used on internal-gear hubs. Such sprockets are available in sizes from 14-24 teeth. Changing the sprocket to customize the gearing is often very worthwhile.

These sprockets are held on by a snap ring, which you can pry off with a small flat-blade screwdriver. When you replace the sprocket, it is a good idea to use a hammer and punch to seat the snap ring into its groove so that the sprocket can't accidentally pop off, leaving the brake inoperative! Sprockets available here.

Older coaster brakes used threaded sprockets and lock rings, as with track hubs. Although they are the same in theory, they commonly used different threading, so they are not usually interchangeable with track sprockets. Threaded sprockets made for coaster brake use commonly had a radial slot at one point, to make it possible to replace a broken spoke without needing to remove the sprocket.

Note that with a coaster brake, the gear ratio affects both the forward pedaling and the brake operation!

*    Using a larger hub sprocket (lower gear) will permit faster acceleration, easier hill climbing and stronger braking.

*    However, a larger sprocket will limit your top speed, and will also require moving the pedals farther backward to cause the brake to engage.

*    Using a smaller hub sprocket (higher gear) will permit you to go faster without having to pedal faster (just harder!). It will also provide quicker brake engagement (you won't have to turn the cranks as far before the brake begins to grab.)

*   However, a smaller sprocket will make hill climbing more difficult, and will also require pushing harder on the pedals to get powerful braking.

==Information and Diagrams for specific brands/models:==

Sutherland's Handbook of Coaster Brake and Internal-Gear Hubs, now hosted on this site, covers many common models.

Note that sometimes these are "private labeled" or there might be "knockoffs" so you might find an unlisted model that is identical to the ones shown.

Axles and axle nuts are generally fairly generic.

===Single-speed Coaster Brakes===

*    Bendix (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    Centrix -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Hawthorne -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Karat -- covered in Sutherland's

*    J.C. Higgins

*    Mattatuck -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Morrow

*    Musselman

*    New Departure (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    NK -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Perry (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    Resilion

*    Sachs Torpedo Boy, Komet Super, Komet Super 161, Pixie, Jet -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Sachs older models back to 1905: on Jens Hansen's Web site (mostly in German)

*    Shimano A Type, B Type, Mighty Mite -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Shimano D Type (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    Shimano E Type (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    Shimano Mighty Mite -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Steyr -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Sturmey-Archer SC (also covered in Sutherland's)

*    Sturmey-Archer SC1 -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Sturmey-Archer older models: covered on Sturmey-Archer Heritage Web site and if the site throws errors, go to the archive on the Wayback Machine.

*    SunTour -- covered in Sutherland's

*    Torpedo (also covered in Sutherland's)

===Two-speed Coaster Brakes===

*Bendix Red Band, Yellow Band, Blue Band Overdrive -- covered in Sutherland's -- also see Bendix page.

*    Sachs Automatic A2110, Duomatic R 2110, Duomatic 102 -- covered in Sutherland's

*    SRAM Automatix

*    Sturmey-Archer B2C Kick Shift (Click on "Technical" and then on link to PDF Manual.)

*    Sturmey-Archer S2 Kick Shift without brake

*    Sturmey-Archer S2C Kick Shift with coaster brake

*    Sturmey-Archer S2K Kick Shift with disk brake fitting

*    Sturmey-Archer T-S2C Kick Shift -- Gear box for tricycle, with coaster brake

*    There are several older Sturmey-Archer two-speeds -- see S-A hubs cribsheet.

If you have information/diagrams of other makes/models that you would like to share with others, please send them to us. We prefer scans of 200 DPI or better, or if you mail us the material we can scan it and return it to you.

* Coaster Brake Instructions from Park Tools

* Coaster Brake Instructions from TroubleShooters.com