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Dynohub: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen
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→Zerlegen: puh... schwieriges Thema
(→1952er Werbematerial: typos) |
(→Zerlegen: puh... schwieriges Thema) |
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;Gehe wie folgt vor: | ;Gehe wie folgt vor: | ||
# Entferne die dynamoseitigen [[Sicherungsmutter]] und [[Unterlegscheibe]]n. Notiere Dir, wie diese arrangiert waren, damit sie beim Ersetzen wieder an die ursprüngliche Position kommen. | # Entferne die dynamoseitigen [[Sicherungsmutter]] und [[Unterlegscheibe]]n. Notiere Dir, wie diese arrangiert waren, damit sie beim Ersetzen wieder an die ursprüngliche Position kommen. | ||
# | # Entferne die vier Muttern und Sicherngsscheiben, die den magnet fixieren auf der Rückseite der Nabe. Danach kann man die vier Schrauben herausziegen, die den Magnetring halten, entfernen. | ||
# | # Halte das Laufrad mit dem Dynamo in Richtung Boden, ganz knapp über die Werkbank. Durch ein paar leichte Schläge mit dem [[Werkstatthammer]] auf die Welle, fällt die Dynamoeinheit komplett heraus. | ||
# | # Der Magnetabstandhalterring kann nun aus dem Nabenkörper gezogen werden. | ||
# Außer es ist absolut unumgänglich, sollten Spule und Magnet niemals getrennt werden. Wenn es nicht anders möglich ist, muss ein Sicherungsring benutzt werden, weil der Magnet sofort einiges seines Magnetismus verliert, außer es befidnet sich immer ein Metallkern im Inneren. Sogar ein kurzer Moment der Trennung führt zu sofortigem Magnetismusverlust und auch ein Schlüssel, der über den Magnet gelegt wird ist kein Ersatz für einen Sicherungsring. | |||
# Unless it is essential to do so, the armature and magnet should never be separated. If they are to be separated, a keeper ring is absolutely necessary, because the magnet will lose some of its magnetism unless there is always iron inside it. Even a moment's separation will cause loss of magnetism, and a spanner placed across the magnet is useless as a substitute for a keeper ring. To separate the magnet and the armature, hold the dynamo unit in the left hand, with the terminal plate against the palm. Then fit a keeper over the armature and lightly tap the keeper with the palm of the right hand. The magnet will slide off the armature and on to the keeper. At this stage it is wise to test the armature with a test meter. If there is no reading on the test meter there is a break in the winding. If a test meter is not available, a battery and bulb may be connected as shown in the diagram, and if the bulb does not light a break in the armature winding is indicated. A second test is to disconnect the lead from one of the armature terminals and touch the outer edges of the armature with the bare lead. If the bulb lights, this indicates a short circuit. | # Unless it is essential to do so, the armature and magnet should never be separated. If they are to be separated, a keeper ring is absolutely necessary, because the magnet will lose some of its magnetism unless there is always iron inside it. Even a moment's separation will cause loss of magnetism, and a spanner placed across the magnet is useless as a substitute for a keeper ring. To separate the magnet and the armature, hold the dynamo unit in the left hand, with the terminal plate against the palm. Then fit a keeper over the armature and lightly tap the keeper with the palm of the right hand. The magnet will slide off the armature and on to the keeper. At this stage it is wise to test the armature with a test meter. If there is no reading on the test meter there is a break in the winding. If a test meter is not available, a battery and bulb may be connected as shown in the diagram, and if the bulb does not light a break in the armature winding is indicated. A second test is to disconnect the lead from one of the armature terminals and touch the outer edges of the armature with the bare lead. If the bulb lights, this indicates a short circuit. | ||
# Remove the cone locknut on the left-hand side and unscrew the left-hand cone. | # Remove the cone locknut on the left-hand side and unscrew the left-hand cone. | ||
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SPECIAL NOTE. - GH6 hubs prior to 1952 had the adjusting cone on the dynamo side. This cone is extended to pass through the armature body and is flatted at the outer end to take (K428) notched adjuster washer, by means of which the cone may be turned. Dismantling instructions from 1 to 5 remain exactly the same as for the current model. For paragraph 6 read 'Unscrew the dynamo-side cone and lift the ball cage out of the hub shell. The spindle may now be pulled out from the other side, together with the fixed cone.' All further comments apply equally to all GH6 hubs. | SPECIAL NOTE. - GH6 hubs prior to 1952 had the adjusting cone on the dynamo side. This cone is extended to pass through the armature body and is flatted at the outer end to take (K428) notched adjuster washer, by means of which the cone may be turned. Dismantling instructions from 1 to 5 remain exactly the same as for the current model. For paragraph 6 read 'Unscrew the dynamo-side cone and lift the ball cage out of the hub shell. The spindle may now be pulled out from the other side, together with the fixed cone.' All further comments apply equally to all GH6 hubs. | ||
===Zusammenbau=== | ===Zusammenbau=== | ||
