Das 1x1 der Trommelbremsen: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

Tighten the axle nuts and reaction arm in steps, so they don't cause each other to bind before reaching their final positions. The reaction arm must be securely bolted to a part of the fork or frame capable of resisting the torque. Attachment should be with a clip that cinches tightly and prevents the reaction arm from rotating even a little bit if the brake is applied when the bicycle is facing uphill or rolling backward. Repeated back-and-forth motion of the reaction arm will loosen the axle nuts. Some bicycles have a "Pac Man" fitting on the left chainstay, so the reaction arm can simply be slid into and out of position; and also, there may be a quick release for the cable.

In the photo below, an old Sturmey-Archer steel pulley doubles the cable travel and mechanical advantage with an (also old) Atom drum brake and serves as a cable quick release. The same trick is possible with the larger pulley of a Problem Solvers Travel Agent, avoiding the use of its smaller pulley, which would more quickly cause metal fatigue to the cable.

A drum-brake hub requires the same bearing maintenance as other hubs, and occasional cable adjustment as the brake shoes wear. If cable adjustment does not restore brake performance, the brake should be disassembled to check the shoes for wear and contamination. Often, the problem is that they have glazed, and a light sanding will cure the problem, but beware of asbestos with older brake linings.