Lenkerband wickeln: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen

(Note: in this article, the word "handlebar" is used in its correct historical sense, referring to the entire part extending to both sides. In the early days of bicycling, the handlebar actually was a solid bar rather than a hollow tube, but the name stuck. Sheldon was a Francophile, yet he anglicized "derailleur" to "derailer". I'm not going to rock the boat -- er -- bike -- with "handletube". It doesn't roll off the tongue as nicely as "handlebar" anyway..-- John Allen.)

OK, now, first let's look at the types and characteristics of handlebar tape. Foam grips also are seen from time to time. They are different enough that they have their own section in this article.

Most tape these days is thick, for comfort. Three types of thick tape are common these days: padded plastic, cloth and "cork". Leather tape is also widely available; thin plastic tape used to be popular but is now less so. You can still find it on eBay and from some specialty retailers.

This type of tape is relatively comfortable, though non-permeable to water so it doesn't "breathe" -- or get soaked in wet weather. Padded plastic tape is generally sold as a boxed package with two coils of tape, adhesive strips and handlebar end plugs. Bontrager tape is shown in the photo below.

Plastic tape

Sheldon generally used Cinelli "Cork" tape. This may contain cork particles in a binder material. We aren't sure. "Cork" tape has a matte appearance; plastic tape usually has a shiny surface.

cork tape

Cloth bias-woven cloth tape was the norm from the late '70s well into the '80s. It is particularly associated with French bicycles, and the major brand, Velox, is French. This tape is adhesive-backed, and is applied pretty much the same as padded plastic. It is usually sold in single rolls. It isn't all that stretchy, so you may need to apply a LOT of tension to keep it from wrinkling where it rounds bends in the handlebars. It tends to be narrow, somewhat compensating for the lack of stretchiness, as does the bias weave. It is convenient to wrap, because the roll holds together as you wrap the tape. Rivendell Bicycle Works has a Web page and video showing installation of cloth tape and securing the end with twine; see links at the end of this page..

Velso Tressostar handlebar tape

Rivet Cycle Works and Brooks of England, which make leather saddles, also make leather handlebar tape which winds onto the handlebar like plastic or cloth tape. There are other brands as well, and a type that is sewn onto the handlebars. Leather tape is permeable to water and often perforated. It is more expensive than other types.

Rivet leather bar tape

Thin, non-adhesive plastic tape is best applied from the center of the bar towards the ends. The starting end is covered by the overlap near the stem, and the finishing ends are tucked into the ends of the handlebars and secured by the plugs. This is the only type of tape that should be applied from the center outwards toward the ends.

Thin plastic handlebar tape

Another way to look at tape is in terms of its characteristics:

*    I (John Allen) have seen an aluminum alloy handlebar with Cinelli "cork" tape from 2007. The handlebar corroded, forming a white, chalky substance. The tape had been in place for only two years and looked fine from the outside. The handlebar broke and the rider crashed. Unfortunately, no chemical analysis was performed on the handlebar and tap to determine what went wrong. I prefer waterproof plastic tape, which may be somewhat less comfortable under sweaty hands, but keeps the handlebar dry.

First things first: make sure that the brake and shift levers are the correct ones, installed where you want them and working correctly. When the tape is off the handlebar is a good time to clean the brake-lever hoods. Use detergent, water: and a scrub brush: rubber can expand as it soaks up petroleum-based solvents.

How important can it be to check lever position -- can I reach the lever of the Sachs trigger shifter from above? The photo shows that I can, with my middle finger by reaching under the brake lever. It's much more convenient than it looks!

Generally, handlebar tape should be wound on starting at the ends of the bars and winding toward the middle. The reason for this is the direction of the overlap, specifically in the area of the "corners" (the upper, forward bend of the handlebar.) If you start at the ends of the bar, the layers overlap one another like the shingles of a roof, with the upper edge of the tape protected by the next winding up from it.

People could debate the winding direction endlessly, like chain lubrication, because there is no perfect solution -- tape will eventually fray or loosen, either way. I (John Allen) have given the issue of winding direction more thought-- maybe too much, and it is a nerdy discussion so I have placed it at the end of this article.

The usual failure mode of handlebar tape jobs is that the tape on the corners of the bars will slide down, exposing gaps. Proper tension helps prevent this, but it is also helpful to use a strip of "traction" tape.

I usually use traditional cloth handlebar tape for this purpose, a strip running along the top/rear of the bar around the corners. This enhances the tape's traction, and adds a little bit of extra padding where it can do the most good as well.

The key to a reliable taping job is tension. As you wind the tape onto the bars, hold it under constant tension, never letting it go slack. The amount of tension should be quite considerable, enough that you might actually worry about breaking the tape.

Good tension keeps the tape from slipping, and also reduces the tendency of the tape to wrinkle where it goes around the bent parts of the handlebar.

Before you start, make sure you have all of the necessary tools and materials at hand. Wash and dry your hands carefully, not just to keep the tape from getting soiled, but also so that oils from your skin won't compromise the connection between the tape and the handlebars.

Use scissors to make a long diagonal cut so that the blunt starting end of the tape is only about half the full width of the tape. The diagonal cut is about 3 inches long, and the cut section matches the end of the handlebar.

Start with the square end at the bottom of the bar, pulling the loose end up and out. Tape may be started by overlapping the end of the handlebar and pinching the end inside the handlebar end plug, but some end plugs, and bar-end shifters, don't allow this. With some end plugs or a bar-end shifter, the tape can't be pinched inside the end plug. You could wrap electrician's tape around the first turn to help hold it in place, making sure to cover the electrician's tape with the next turn so it doesn't show.

The diagonal cut permits a constant overlap of the tape, so there's no thick lumpy section at the end of the bar. Modern tape is fairly thick, so you should try to keep the overlap pretty much constant, to avoid lumpiness. The first turn wraps the end of the handlebar all the way around, and then you angle the tape wind its way up toward the brake laver.

Many shifters for internal-gear hubs can't be mounted on drop bars, with their slightly larger diameter. A bendable steel clamp band allows a trigger shifter to be mounted on drop bars, using a slightly longer bolt than originally supplied. Mount a trigger shifter under a brake lever where it is protected if the bicycle falls over. It will not dig into the hand as it would if mounted at the end of the handlebar.

Strips to hide cbrake lever clamp

The photo below shows the "shingle" effect (green arrow) which results from starting taping from outside to inside on the underside at the end of the handlebar, and the exposed Sachs trigger tabs, bolt and nut (red arrow). The tape should usually extend far enough toward the center of the handlebar that your hand has room to sit entirely on the tape. A carbon-fiber handlebar may have a longer bulge at the center, so the tape toes not go as close to the center. As with the beginning, cut the end diagonally, but the end section is a full-width diagonal cut, about 6 inches long tapering to a sharp point. The adhesive finishing strip will then fit without wrinkling, since the tape thickness is constant right up to the cut end. The Bontrager finishing strip shown is elastic and should be stretched so it secures the tape well. Pull it in the same direction as the tape was wrapped. Cloth tape, in particular, can be finished with a wrap of twine, as described on the page from Rivendell Bicycle Works linked at the end of this article.

Foam grips such as "Grab-on" brand were quite popular in the late '70s and early '80s. They cushion road impacts and can be a good choice for riders with long fingers. Foam grips provide excellent insulation for winter riding. Some riders like to cover them with a layer of cloth tape to make the foam a bit firmer, and to protect it. This will require two rolls of cloth tape at either side, due to the larger diameter.

Installing foam grips is often quite a struggle. Our favorite approach is to use hair spray as a lubricant. Spray into the grips, while holding one end covered, and also spray copiously on the handlebar just before sliding the grip on.

Sometimes, foam grips may be counterproductive, due to the "two-bump problem."

OK, here's the nerdy discussion of which way to wind the tape.