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Wartung von Steuersätzen (Quelltext anzeigen)

Version vom 8. März 2013, 12:50 Uhr

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→‎Wackeln und Schwergängigkeit zusammen: weiter übersetzt
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===Wackeln und Schwergängigkeit zusammen===
===Wackeln und Schwergängigkeit zusammen===
Sometimes you will find both of these faults at the same time. This indicates a more serious problem, not just an adjustment issue. You may find that the headset is loose when the fork is facing straight forward, but gets tight when you turn the handlebars to one side or the other, or that it simply can't be adjusted. Possible causes:
Manchmal hat men beide Phänomene gleichzeitig. Das deutet auf eine schwerwiegendes Problem hin. Hierbei handelt es sich nicht um ein reines Einstellungsproblem. Wenn der Steuersatz bei gerade gestelltem Lenker lose ist und beim Einlenken in die eine oder andere Richtung schwergängig wird, kann man das nicht durch Einstellen beheben. Möglich Ursachen sind:
*Der Gabelschaft wurde bei einem Unfall verbogen. Das ist im Allgemeinen nicht reparabel und die Gabel muss ausgetauscht werden.
* Eine oder mehrere der lagerschalen wurden schief montiert. Das kann man gewöhnlicherweise dadaurch beheben, dass man das Steuerrohr und den Gabelkonussitz an der Gabelkrone plan fräst. Dadurch stellt man sicher, dass die Lage der Aufnahmen perfekt aufeinander ausgerichtet sind. Dazu benötigt man spezielle Werkzeuge, das bessere Fahrradläden in der Werkstatt haben sollten.<br>Eine oder mehrere der Lagerschalen sitzen nicht richtig fest an den Stellen, wo sie im Rahmen bzw. auf der Gabel sitzen - oder das Patronenlager sitz nicht plan in der Lagerschale. Hierdzurch wirkt der Steuersatz wackelig, obowhl genug Vorpannug vorhanden ist, um Lagerspiel zu verhindern. In den meiosten Fällen kommt das vom Gabelkonus.<br><br>Wenn der Gabelkonus lose sitzt, kann man das mit einem Hammer und einem [[Ankörner]] beheben, in dem eine Serie von "Kratern" an die seitliche Fläche des Gabelschafts schlägt, auf den der Gabelkonus aufgeschlagen wird. Die erhöhten Kanten dieser Krater können evtl. genug Material hergeben, um den losen Sitz zu beheben.


    The fork steerer may have been bent in a crash. Generally, this is not repairable, and you need to replace the fork.
*.<br><br>Alternately, you may go to a different size headset. In particular, if you are working with a J.I.S. frame and fork, it can be re-machined to work with an ISO headset. Since J.I.S. head tube races are smaller, and J.I.S. crown races are larger, there is material available to be machined away to upgrade to ISO.<br><br>You might also use "plastic steel" (epoxy glue with a filler of steel particles, available at hardware stores) to build up the space between a bearing race and its seat. Be sure to clean off the excess, so steel particles don't get into the bearing. Assemble and adjust the headset before the epoxy sets, so the races will seat fully.
    One or more of the bearing races may be installed slightly crooked. This usually is fixable by having the frame's head tube and the fork's crown machined or "faced" to ensure that the races install with correct alignment. This requires expensive special tools that only better bike shops have.
    One or more of the bearing races may be loose where they attach to the frame/fork -- or a cartridge bearings may not seat tightly against a race. This will cause looseness as the race wiggles back and forth, even though the bearings may have been tightened up sufficiently to eliminate bearing play. The fork crown race most often gives this problem.


    If the crown race is loose, sometimes you can fix it by using a hammer and centerpunch to create a series of "craters" in the side of the surface that locates the crown race. The raised edges of the craters may be just enough to remove the slop.
*You may have installed a bearing retainer upside down. This is not uncommon. There is no real standardization as to which way the retainer faces, so it's easy to err. However, if you take a careful look at the races of your particular headset, you will see that if you install the retainer upside down, the retainer can come into contact with one of the races. Just flip it over. The retainer must not be in contact with anything but the bearing balls.
 
*If the headset uses loose bearing balls, there may be too many, so they jam against each other. A bearing ball or balls may have moved out of line during installation, so it is rubbing rather than rolling.
    Alternately, you may go to a different size headset. In particular, if you are working with a J.I.S. frame and fork, it can be re-machined to work with an ISO headset. Since J.I.S. head tube races are smaller, and J.I.S. crown races are larger, there is material available to be machined away to upgrade to ISO.
*The headset may have been assembled from mismatched parts. It's OK to replace only the bottom or top parts of the headset as a unit, but the two bearing races at the top, and the two at the bottom must match, and the bearing balls and retainer (or cartridge) need to be the right size, or else all bets are off.
 
    You might also use "plastic steel" (epoxy glue with a filler of steel particles, available at hardware stores) to build up the space between a bearing race and its seat. Be sure to clean off the excess, so steel particles don't get into the bearing. Assemble and adjust the headset before the epoxy sets, so the races will seat fully.
    You may have installed a bearing retainer upside down. This is not uncommon. There is no real standardization as to which way the retainer faces, so it's easy to err. However, if you take a careful look at the races of your particular headset, you will see that if you install the retainer upside down, the retainer can come into contact with one of the races. Just flip it over. The retainer must not be in contact with anything but the bearing balls.
    If the headset uses loose bearing balls, there may be too many, so they jam against each other. A bearing ball or balls may have moved out of line during installation, so it is rubbing rather than rolling.
    The headset may have been assembled from mismatched parts. It's OK to replace only the bottom or top parts of the headset as a unit, but the two bearing races at the top, and the two at the bottom must match, and the bearing balls and retainer (or cartridge) need to be the right size, or else all bets are off.


===Einrasten ([[Stillstandsmarke]]n)===
===Einrasten ([[Stillstandsmarke]]n)===
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