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Kettenschaltung: 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10- oder 11-Gang? (Quelltext anzeigen)

Version vom 2. Juni 2013, 20:48 Uhr

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Component manufacturers like to sell you lots of new parts, even if you don't need them. This has led to much confusion as various parts are labeled as if they are incompatible with other parts even though they are actually usable with little or no problem. Also, design often is churned by spec hype, and "keeping up with the Joneses," as in more sprockets, lighter weight, higher-priced components must be better. "Jones" is also a slang term for a drug addiction!
Komponentenhersteller möchten gerne viele neue Teile verkaufen, auch wenn man sie nicht wirklich braucht. Das hat zu einiger Konfusion geführt, weil viele Teile so bezeichnet sind, dass man meinen könnte, dass sie nicht miteinander kombinierbar sind, obwohl sie in Wirklichkeit leicht kombinierbar wären. Zusätzlich sind viele Designs vom Spezifikationshype getragen und "was der Nachbar kanm, kann ich schon lange", führt oft zu der Annahme, dass mehr [[Ritzel]]n, weniger Gewicht, höherpreisige Komponenten besser sein müssen. Manchal verführt dieses System zu einer Art Suchtverhalten.


In reality, the fancier parts aren't always the most suitable, in the same way that a Ferrari, while it is a great racecar, isn't at all as good for daily transportation as a Toyota -- there are practical issues of cost, reliability, serviceability and durability. With bicycle components, the performance gain with higher-end models is often minusucule. Remember, you account for 80 percent of the weight even if you are riding a rather heavy bicycle!
In der Realität sind die ausgefalleneren Teile nicht immer die passendsten. So wie ein Ferrari, der ein ausgezeichnetes Rennauto darstellt, sicherlich nicht so gut geeignet ist für die täglichen Erledigungen wie beispielsweise ein VW Polo. Da spielen so praktische Erwägungen wie Zuverlässigkeit, Kosten, Wartbarkeit und Dauerhaltbarkeit eine entscheidende Rolle. Der Performancevorteil des Highendmodells ist hier eher verachlässigbar. Man darf niemals vergessen, dass man als Fahrer etwa 80% des Systemgewichts beisteuert, selbst wenn man ein recht schweres Fahrrad fährt!


There are, on the other hand, some real compatibility issues.


The following parts only are "speed specific":
Auf der anderen Seite gibt es natürlich echte Kompatibilitätsprobleme.
 
Folgende Teile sind ausschließlich "Gangspezifisch":
 
*'''[[Indiziert]]er Schalthebel''': Dessen [[Rastung]] (Klicks) muss zu dem System passen, bei dem er zum Einsatz kommen. Das korrespondiert zumeist auch mit der richtigen Anzahl an Klicks. Wobei ein Schalthebel mit einem zusätzichen Klick auch funktioniert, solange die Klickabstände passen. (Schalthebel mit [[Friktionsschaltung]] haben nie ein Kompatibilitätsproblem, sie lassen sich mit allem kombinieren.)
*'''[[Kassette]]''':
*'''[[Kette]]''':


*Indexed Shifters These need to have the spacing of detents ("clicks") to match the system they'll be used with. This usually goes along with the correct number of clicks -- though a shifter with an extra click also can work, as long as the spacing is OK. (Friction shifters have no compatibility issues, they work with everything.)
*Cassettes It is really the cassette that determines how many speeds you have in back.<br>Campagnolo/Shimano 8-speed cassettes have different spacing , so you can't generally get good indexing using a Campagnolo 8-speed wheel with a Shimano shift system or vice versa.<br>With 7-, 9- and 10-speed systems, the sprocket spacing between brands is close enough that it rarely causes any difficulty in practice.<br>For perfect matching, you might substitute different spacers, use alternate cable routing, or use a Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor.<br>See my "Spacing Cribsheet " for more details on this.
*Cassettes It is really the cassette that determines how many speeds you have in back.<br>Campagnolo/Shimano 8-speed cassettes have different spacing , so you can't generally get good indexing using a Campagnolo 8-speed wheel with a Shimano shift system or vice versa.<br>With 7-, 9- and 10-speed systems, the sprocket spacing between brands is close enough that it rarely causes any difficulty in practice.<br>For perfect matching, you might substitute different spacers, use alternate cable routing, or use a Jtek ShiftMate pulley adaptor.<br>See my "Spacing Cribsheet " for more details on this.
*Chain As you go to more sprockets on the cassette, you need a narrower chain. However, using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a "9-speed" chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a "10-speed" chain with a 9-speed system. This is not the ideal approach -- shifting may not be quite as smooth -- but it's workable.<br>Narrow chains bring other problems, though. They are usually more expensive and -- with 10 or more speeds -- don't last as long -- even when used in the intended system.<br>The narrowest chains also are more trouble to maintain. A master link, the SRAM PowerLink, makes it easy to disconnect a chain for cleaning. The 7/8 speed SRAM PowerLink works with SRAM and Shimano chains, probably others too. The 9-speed PowerLink works reliably with SRAM chains, but it may lead to a Shimano chain's jumping forward. The 10-speed SRAM Powerlock (note different name) is good for one-time use only: You must install a new one every time you reconnect the chain -- but then, if the chain has worn significantly, it will cause a "clunk" every time it comes around, because this one link is shorter than the others! Shimano's 9- and 10-speed system is even more trouble: you must press in a special link pin, using a special tool, every time you reconnect the chain, and this, too will cause a "clunk".
*Chain As you go to more sprockets on the cassette, you need a narrower chain. However, using a chain one size narrower than standard rarely presents any problem. Thus, you can use a "9-speed" chain with a 7-speed or 8-speed system, or a "10-speed" chain with a 9-speed system. This is not the ideal approach -- shifting may not be quite as smooth -- but it's workable.<br>Narrow chains bring other problems, though. They are usually more expensive and -- with 10 or more speeds -- don't last as long -- even when used in the intended system.<br>The narrowest chains also are more trouble to maintain. A master link, the SRAM PowerLink, makes it easy to disconnect a chain for cleaning. The 7/8 speed SRAM PowerLink works with SRAM and Shimano chains, probably others too. The 9-speed PowerLink works reliably with SRAM chains, but it may lead to a Shimano chain's jumping forward. The 10-speed SRAM Powerlock (note different name) is good for one-time use only: You must install a new one every time you reconnect the chain -- but then, if the chain has worn significantly, it will cause a "clunk" every time it comes around, because this one link is shorter than the others! Shimano's 9- and 10-speed system is even more trouble: you must press in a special link pin, using a special tool, every time you reconnect the chain, and this, too will cause a "clunk".
Bikegeissel
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